Hello there! 🙂
I have here for you a new recipe for a great spring cream! I really fell in love with it!
It is a spring cream, very very hydrating and with a fresh feel 🙂
I have used for the first time a “new” xanthan gum, let’s say an improved version which wouldn’t make a too slimy gel, as it usually does. I have used it so few times that I don’t feel I can have a full opinion of it but all I can say at the moment is: yes, it doesn’t make a slimy gel but, at the same time, it doesn’t gel as much as the other (normal?) xanthan gum would.
So I feel I have to use it few more times to find out at which concentration I am satisfied with its gelling abilities.
I have also used a new emulsifying system: this time I used a mix of Methyl Glucose Distearate and Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate. I liked this combination! It gives a less “heavy” cream (in the sense of “waxy”) and a better comfort when applied.
About the active ingredients… I think I have added all I could add in a cream that was supposed to be very (VERY 😀 ) hydrating and energizing: sodium lactate, sodium hyaluronate, D-panthenol and multivitaminic nanosomes.
I guess this is enough chit chat 😀 … now straight to THE RECIPE:
Phase A:
Water to 100 – here what this means.
“Improved” Xanthan gum 0.5 – (now I would try adding a 0.7, I am not too satisfied with this quantity)
Glycerin – 3
Phase B:
Murumuru Butter 2
Babassu Butter 1
Cetiol Sensoft 2.5 – this is the commercial name of a very light synthetic ester. If you want “all natural” you can try to substitute it with jojoba oil… but it won’t be exactly the same 🙂
Methyl Glucose Dystearate – 2
Methyl Glcose Sesquistearate – 1
Cetyl Alcohol – 1.3
Phase C:
Sodium Lactate (solution at 60%) 5 – usually you find sodium lactate in 60% solution.
Hyaluronic Acid Gel (1%) 5
D-Panthenol 1
Multivit Nanosomes 2 – this is a commercial “active ingredient” you can purchase as it is. It contains vitamin C, A and E incapsulated in nanosomes.
Preservative – goes at the specific concentration of the preservative you own.
Phase D: this is a cold oil phase, I have added it to be able to disperse the Q10 powder
Argan oil – 2
Safflower oil – 2
Q10 – 0.1 – I was using the pure powder. If you have other forms of Q10, you might have to add a much higher amount than 0.1 so check the data sheet of your product.
Now the HOW TO part:
1) As always we measure the glycerin and the xanthan gum. Mix them together and add water little by little. Let the gel form.
To improve the consistency of the gel, you could use an immersion mixer to “open” the xanthan gum. It works very well, however pay attention at not adding any air to the gel or it will remain in the final product in the form of micro-bubbles.
Heat it up to 70°C
2) Measure the phase B and heat it up to 70°C in a double boiler.
3) When both are at 70°C, add the Phase B to the Phase A little by little while mixing with an immersion mixer.
Pay attention to not add any air bubbles.
You will get a liquid hot white cream. Don’t panic, it has to be liquid and it will thicken while it cools down.
Do not stop mixing with a spatula or oil and water will probably separate… so mix until cooled down 🙂
4) Once it is cooled down, measure the Phase C and the Phase D.
Add them to the cream base and mix with an immersion mixer again 🙂
The cream, when cooled down should look like this:
5) Since in the Phase D there is Q10 and Q10 has a “egg yolk” color, the color of the cream will be light yellow.
This cream feels very light on the skin and I feel nourished!
Hope you enjoyed this recipe!
For more recipes click HERE
To learn how to formulate cosmetics click HERE
For a list of online cosmetic ingredients suppliers click HERE
Have a great day!! 😀
It's all in my hands 
This looks like a good face cream. Thanks for the recipe, I will try it out this weekend. Hope I can make it work.
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Hello 🙂
Did you try it? 🙂
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can i use eumalginb2 as surfactant with PEg and if i want to use natural surfact.like licthen
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What is eumalginb2?
And I am not sure I understood the question.
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please how i can make aleo vera gel .can i add SH and vet.E D-panth.
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I have a post about making aloe vera gel, a post about making SH gel and a post about making a serum with SH, vitamin E and D-panthenol. You could simply add the 1:200 aloe vera powder to it.
😉
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please i need your opinon if i usedQ10 and multiv.with sodium polyacrilate cream
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What is “multiv”? INCI?
And what exactly do you want to know?
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can i add multivit nanosomes to creamusing sodium polyacirlat as emusifer ….and whate is good surfactant to add to rose water to be clear
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In theory I think you can add them, but you have to check by making a sample batch. However I don’t think sodium polyacrilate is a good emulsifier, at least I wouldn’t leave it alone as it doesn’t seem to be stable.
The question about the rose water is vague.
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What about polyacrylate crosspolymer? Whats your take on it?
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i need agood solubilze for making rose water
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So you mean something totally different: do you want to add rose fragrance oil to water and need to solubilize the oil?
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Thanks for the recipe, I will try it. Hope this is lighting face cream, because I buy different face cream in d market and I supply to final consumer. Thanks
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I didn’t understand 🙂
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Morning. I mean ( SHM-FACE) Doe’s it really white face, I mean white,because that is what ladys want.. Thanks
My second question is can I use methyl paraben and proply paraben as my preservatives instead of the one you gave. Thanks. God bless you
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Well this cream doesn’t have anything specific to whiten the face. It is just a multivitamin cream which might help a little improve the complexion. Whitening is a very advanced formulation and you need a proper laboratory to use the ingredients or the cream becomes black.
You could, however, add 2% arbutin, but it can still cause issues.
Ps. Not all women want to whiten the face. In Europe we have tanning creams instead 😀
I believe you are from Asia? 🙂
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Thanks for the response.
Am not from Asia, am from African, Nigeria to be precise.
Here in my country ladies want to be white. How do I go about it?.
Thanks
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I told you: arbutin is an ingredient you could use but a very effective formulation needs to be done from an experienced formulator and it also requires a specific equipment.
I don’t know much more as I have never had to formulate a whitening cream unfortunately
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OK. Thanks.
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What of if I add Hydrating Elixir Serum into my base cream, what can it give? Can it whitening face.
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No that is very hydrating and moisturizing but that’s it.
For whitening you need a very specific formulation and ingredients!
You probably also would want to add a strong SPF filtering system, which is another really technical and advanced subject in formulation.
I am sorry but you cannot make a really effective whitening cream at home
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Multivit Nanosomes 2 – this is a commercial “active ingredient” you can purchase as it is. It contains vitamin C, A and E incapsulated in nanosomes.
Where to buy multivit Nanosome?
Just broke incapsulated and measure 2 g?
I like your recipe and thanks a lot
Dan
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You don’t need to break any capsule since the nanosomes are really small capsules that help delivering the ingredients. That’s all.
I believe I purchased them from glamourcosmetics.it or farmaciavernile.it 🙂
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Thanks a lot for your respond.
Can you check for me the multivitamin in nanosome? please click on the link:
Thank you in advance.
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No, this is NOT a cosmetic ingredient! You need to purchase cosmetic ingredients from a specific reseller.
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Question, i am wanting to try your recipes, but i cant follow them. you dont say cups, or ounces, or tbs or whatever after any ingredient, just a number? how can we follow this? i must have come in late or something cuz i am lost. please explain someone???
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Hi Michele,
You need a 0.01g precision scale. Every number is for reaching 100%. If you want to make 300 grams of lotion, you must multiply every single number/ingredient by three. It is not difficult 🙂
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this just not be in the US, cuz we dont write recipes like this. are we supposed to guess if it is cups or tbs or tsp? thankyou anyway.
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Nope. You CANNOT use Tbsp or tsp or cups because they are not based on metrics.
Cosmetics cannot be made with unscientific measures. When you add a preserving system, or an acid… These are dangerous ingredients that need PRECISE measuring.
So if you want to make cosmetics you must purchase a scale with a precision of 0.01grams
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i was of course not serious. i was being sarcastic. i am from the US and we DONT write up recipes like this. that is the dangerous thing here is having them up without an exact measurements. yours are not exact, i dont know where you are, but this is all out of whack. when we write down recipes they are exact!
like 4 TBS sugar
2 cups water
3 ounces tabasco
like that. so obvioulsy your recipes are not any good for anyone in the US. i am not being mean, cuz i would have loved to have made them.
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If you don’t care enough to learn how to properly formulate by weighting ingredients, it’s fine by me. Bye 🙂
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no worries, i am sure that people in the US dont want to have to conform to the way you write up recipes. its like trying to read Chinese. now on that note, keep writing to yourself, and i will share our conversation with all of my partners, and our clients. keep it interesting!
btw nobody goes to recipe and feels the need to “learn” to understand how you do things. we go there, to look, and then make it. shouldnt be a BIG project to have that happen. thankyou, i will stick to Americans and how they write recipes….fyi, you are now blocked, i KNOW you will write again, but know that i will NOT read any more Chinese. LOL cyonara!
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sorry i contacted you, your recipes are not ok to use in the US. we dont wrote recipes like this, and of course i was being sarcastic. NOBODY would just guess. as i wrote i dont know where you are, would have loved to have used your ideas, but not US friendly recipes. i have been making things for years, and have never seen a recipe like this, never!
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so we guess if it is tbs or tsp or cups? this ust not have been made in the US. we dont wrote recipes this way. thanx anyway.
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