RECIPE:
NOTE: every quantity in this recipe is in grams and it is a recipe for 100 gr of product. The meaning of “to 100” means that the quantity of the water (in this case “rose water”) is counted until reaching 100 gr for the entire recipe.
Rose water to 100
Sodium Hyaluronate 1
Sk-influx (this is the commercial name of a complex of different kinds of ceramides. You can use what you find with the same function) 2.5
Ceramide liposomes 2.5
D-panthenol 2
Sodium lactate (60% solution) 5
Bisabolol 0.5
Umectol (this is the commercial name of a hydrating complex. Once again: you can freely use a different complex with the same function) 2.5
Hydrolized silk proteins 2
Cosgard 0.6 (this is the preservative)
In the very end I also added one drop of water soluble red food coloring. This is why it is pink (needless to say this is totally up to you).
I made the Hyaluronic acid using rose water the evening before. Of course I used 1 gram of sodium hyaluronate and around 80 grams of rose water… not 100.
The morning after the gel was ready so I just mixed it a bit and added these ingredients in the recipe. I added the preservative in the end.
As you can see there are few oily components like Bisabolol, D-panthenol… quite in a high % (usually a gel is fine up to 1% of oils). The reason is that I used a commercial Rose water 😀
I did not have any substance to solubilize the oils inside of the gel (at the time that i created this serum) so I decided to give good use to those who are usually inside commercial Rose water! 😀 Ok let me explain: inside of commercial Rose water they solubilize stuff like perfume/essential oils and preservative (at least usually). To make the water still clear and transparent they use a bit more solubilizer than needed… you can be sure about this by shaking the bottle of the rose water: if a few bubbles form (kind like in a light bubble bath) then you can be sure there is some free surfactant substance (the solubilizer…) inside of the rose water. I say “free” because part of it reacted to solubilize the oils inside of the water… and part of it is still free and making therefore the water clear once again.
So!
Making a gel with this kind of water and adding oils to it, I used the “free surfactant” and this is why this gel is holding on together! 😀
And this is also why it is not transparent (apart for the fact that Sk-influx are not transparent at all)!
So there it is all the “tips and tricks” 😀
I like this serum very much and I have been using it for the last month on my face 🙂
It is very light (cause it is practically oil free) and needless to say: super nourshing! 🙂
Hope you like it!
Let me know if you have any questions! 😀
I love your blog and your recipes, please tell me your supplier! 🙂
LikeLike
Oh I have many! 🙂
You can find a list of online suppliers of these ingredients here: https://itsallinmyhands.com/2013/04/08/buying_online_cosmetic_ingredients/
Not all of these sell the same ingredients but more or less they do 🙂
Some sell more emulsifiers and specific “technical” ingredients… others sell more “basic” ingredients 🙂 just check them out and find the best for you 🙂
LikeLike
Wat emulsifier to add in oil n water serums??
LikeLike
An “emulsified” serum is not a serum but a lotion, serums are usually without emulsifiers. Sometimes they include a solubilizer for the fragrance oil or the very small oil phase (1-2% of the whole formula) but essentially serums are called “serums” cause they tend to be mostly transparent and quite liquidy gels (so they include gelling agents rather than emulsifiers)
LikeLike
What a brilliant blog!
LikeLike
Another interesting item that I’d like to make! Thx u for sharing!
Are you able to recommend a substitution to sodium lactate?
LikeLike
Hmmm I think I really love this ingredient. It makes my skin smooth.
However you can substitute it with an hydrating ingredient or simply omit it 🙂
LikeLike
very helpful thank you
LikeLiked by 1 person
Very helpful blog…love it.
May i know..what kind of preservative you put in this serum, and how much…?? Thank u
LikeLike
Hello! I made this so long ago I am sorry but I cannot remember ><
LikeLike
What is the difference between ceramide liposomes and ski inlux? I mean they both have ceramide but?
LikeLike
Sk-influx contains ceramides but not liposomes. Liposomes tend to help the skin “receive” ceramides.
However, I don’t know if the difference would be visible on the skin 😉
LikeLike
Genius! The trick with rose water is so clever! I read bisabolol and thought… What? But such a smart solution. I’ll do it too. That way I can include more fancy stuff in my serum.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Hi!
Thank you so much for sharing this. If I wanted to add a few extras such as aloe and bamboo for example, what would I replace? All my extracts are made from 100% glycerin. I am assuming I can just replace the humectant since that is what glycerin is? What is the max % of extracts I can use? I’d like this to have at least a year shelf life.
Thanks again.
Lindseyf1212@gmail.com
LikeLike
Hi Lindsey,
The problem with extracts is that they tend to shorten the shelf life of a product.
You are right in substituting the glycerin if your extracts are glycerin based.
Just to be clear: the ONLY way to know if your product has 1 year shelf life is to do proper testing of the product. That is the only way. 🙂
LikeLike
Plz make an emulsion serum with collagen
LikeLike