Category Archives: Creams

Aloe Vera Face Cream DIY

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Hello there! :)

I am back with a new recipe for a summer cream light in texture, very hydrating and nourishing. :)

Aloe Vera Cream Cover

I have been using it for a couple of weeks and I really like it.
Obviously my “grease fall” composition is intended for what my skin likes (nowadays my acne days are only a distant memory but I am always scared it might come back: so I still formulate in order to give my skin fatty acids that won’t give any advantage to acne :) – you can read more HERE). You can, as always, change the grease fall for your own purpose and needs :)

The texture is light and quite fluid, it absorbs very easily and it has a quite “matte” finish thanks to the butters.
The active ingredients make for a soothing, hydrating and quite nourishing cream :)

Enough words now! :D

[Warning: if you are new to my blog and find this post overwhelming… trust me, it is not! You just need to learn a bit more about making REAL cosmetics at home and you can read all the info you need starting from the Site Index! As you can see there are theory posts which will teach you how to formulate and how to make creams and other cosmetics.
If you are not new to the making of lotions at home, but you feel overwhelmed by the ingredients that I use… do not worry! Nowadays there are more and more websites which sell cosmetic ingredients online and probably there is at least one in your own country. I have posted a list of the most known - to me - websites of this kind… you can find it HERE!]

RECIPE: 

Phase A: 
Water to 100 (as always – find the meaning of this HERE)
Glycerin 4 (glycerin is very hydrating but for people with very oily skin it might give a heavy/stiky feeling to the cream. Personally I don’t feel it so I like to add glycerin because it is fairly inexpensive but effective. If you have very oily skin add glycerin at 1% instead of 4%. Do not omit it though, because it is functional to the cream)
Xanthan Gum 0.25 (this is the gelling agent - Even thought xanthan gum, alone, doesn’t make the best gel, I am not using it combined to a carbomer because of the ingredients in this recipe: there are too many ingredients which would break down the carbomer gel and therefore why to waste it… :) )

Phase B: 
Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate 3 (this is, as you well know, the emulsifier)
Cetyl Alcohol 1.8 (this is our thickener :) it gives consistency to the cream – and a dry finish)
Kokum butter 1 
Murumuru butter 1 
Tocopherol 0.5 (our Vitamin E)
Cetiol Sensoft 0.5 (this is a very light synthetic oil which gives a good consistency to the cream. If you don’t want to use synthetic oils then you could try to substitute it with jojoba oil – which is actually an ester – but the consistency wouldn’t be really same. However, being the concentration so low, it is probable you won’t find any difference :) ).

Phase C (the oily – cool down phase):
Safflower oil 1 
Black currant seed oil 0.5 
Cranberry seed oil 0.5 
Bisabolol 0.5 (this is a powerful soothing ingredient – it also helps against the growth of acne bacteria)

Phase C part 2 (the water based – cool down phase):
Hyaluronic Acid Gel 3 (we have made it HERE)
Aloe Vera Powder (200:1) 0.5 (I used an organic aloe vera powder)
D-Panthenol 1 (Vitamin B5)
Allantoin 0.4 (soothing active ingredient)
Silk Hydrolized Proteins 2.6 (you can substitute with any other kind of hydrolyzed proteins you own)
Preservative (at the concentration needed for the specific preservative you use)

Extras:
- Fragrance oil (of course of at least Cosmetic grade)
- One drop of food colorant

As always, the HOW TO is very similar to all the other recipes of creams I have done.
Here a little sum up:

1) Pour the Xanthan gum on top of the Glycerin, stir.

Autumn Cream 1

2) Slowly add the water of the Phase A:
Autumn Cream 2

3) Now measure the Phase B.

4) Place Phase A and Phase B in a double boiler and heat them up to 70°C
Phase A and Phase B

5) Pour the Phase B into the Phase A into 2 or 3 steps.
Phase B in Phase A

6) With a stick blender or immersion mixer, mix the two phases together until well emulsified:
Mix

7) Keep stirring with a spatula until the emulsion reaches room temperature (DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP! Yes it takes time, yes it is boring but if you don’t do it your emulsion will separate and you will have wasted ingredients…)
Keep Stirring
ps. In this picture the cream is already cooled down so it is a little bit thick. Don’t be scared if, in the beginning, the emulsion will be very liquid almost like milk! It is normal.

8) When the cream is at room temperature, add the two Phase Cs (you add one, mix with a spatula… add the second one and mix again with a spatula).

9) When all looks good and emulsified, give it a last stir with the stick blender (it will make the cream more smooth and stable).
Avoid adding air to the cream or it will form bubbles, which can eventually make your emulsion break down.

10) Add fragrance and color to your liking. (I added cucumber fragrance and one drop of green food coloring giving the cream a fresh feel :) Obviously you can omit this step).

Tadaaa :D :D :D

Aloe Cream

Hope you liked this recipe!

Any question? :)
Do you have any cosmetic you would like me to try and formulate? :)

HAVE A GREAT DAY! :)

Q10 Antioxidant Face Cream DIY

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Hello there! :)

I am back with a new recipe for a light face cream, perfect for summer (you can use it as a potent aftersun).

Q10 Antioxidant Face Cream DIY

I do not like (and I don’t suggest) to use antioxidant creams all the year around because the cell-metabolism is complex and using too much antioxidants might have its bad sides as well… however, a month of antiox-cream and two months of not antiox-creams shouldn’t do any harm :) on the contrary…

The ANTIOXIDANT properties of this cream are performed not by just one active ingredient but by a combination of antiox active ingredients which work in SYNERGY together! :)
This means that if you make a “Q10 Cream” with only Q10 as active ingredient (even at higher concentration) it won’t work as well as together these other antioxidants! :)

Q10 is known to accelerate the metabolism of a cell, therefore it somehow makes the cells live shorter (or, as they put it in the cosmetic industries, “it promotes skin renewal”).
It works well with Vitamin C (of course we are going to use a stable form), Vitamin E and Alpha-Lipoic Acid.
Warning! Alpha-Lipoic Acid has a terrible smell of battered egg, therefore, if you can’t stand bad smell, omit it!

In this recipe I am going to try out a new emulsifier (new to me, that’s what I mean ;) ), I am talking about “Hitecream 3000
The INCI is: Potassium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Oat Protein,Behenyl Alcohol, Palm Glycerides, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Sucrose Palmitate.
I have decided to follow the technical sheet of it and I have used it as the only emulsifier and thickener (it already contains Behenyl Alcohol, which is a thickener) at 7%.
Now that I have already tried it I can say that the emulsion came out fine and that, even thought 7% is a high concentration, it didn’t become too thick. Probably if I had to remake this cream, I would use it at 5% and try adding a little of Cetyl alcohol… but this I still have to test :) I am just rambling here…
Enough now! :D

The RECIPE! :) 

Phase A: 
Water to 100 
Glycerin 2 
Xanthan Gum 0.2 (I am using the non-transparent grade, but the transparent grade is fine as well)
Carbopol Utrez 21 0.3 

Phase B: 
Hitecream 3000 7 
Kokum butter 1.5 (you can substitute it with another butter)
Murumuru butter 1 (same as above)
Dicaprylyl Ether 1.5 (this is a light synthetic oil, you can substitute it with jojoba oil if you don’t have it. It won’t be the same effect though)
Tocopherol 1 (this is our beloved Vitamin E)

Phase C (the oily one)
Safflower oil 0.5 
Ribes Nigrum oil 0.5 
Q10 0.1 (this concentration is enough for the cream! You will notice that the cream, eventually, will be slightly yellow)
Alpha-Lipoic Acid 0.5 (to actually work in synergy it should be used around 1.5%, the problem is the terrible smell it has – and honestly, at 0.5% it already is terrible! So, once again, if you cannot stand massaging your face with a “battered egg smell”, simply ignore and omit this ingredient) :D

Phase D (the cold water based phase)
SAP 1 (sodium ascorbyl phosphate – this is the stable form of Vitamin C – if you have another stable form you can use it of course)
Rose water 10 (you can also use normal water – it is just to “melt” the SAP in…)
Preservative (at the specific concentration of the preservative you are using)
D-Panthenol 1 (also known as Vitamin B5 – remember that this can break down the Carbopol Utrez 21 we have in the Phase A, so add little at a time and if you see the cream breaking down… don’t add all of it!)

The HOW TO is the same for any other cream with a waxy emulsifier I have done, so don’t get lost if most of the pictures, here, will be from old creams I made! :)

1) When we work with Xanthan Gum and Carbopol Utrez 21 we have to separate the Phase A initially:
First we disperse the Xanthan Gum in the glycerin and add a little bit of the water of the Phase A
Sulphur Cream 1
Then we pour the Carbopol on top of the remaining water of the Phase A.
Water and Carbopol Utrez 21
Until we see something like this:
Water and Carbomer after 5 min
(It will happen naturally and without stirring! If you stir, you might get most of the Carbopol stuck to your spoon or spatula and that will be a good % of it… so don’t stir! ;) )
Only after the Carbopol has “hydrated” you can add the Xanthan Gum mix to the Carbopol water.

2) Measure the Phase B in a separate Becher

3) Heat up the two phases up to 70°C
Phase A and Phase B

4) When they both reached the temperature of 70°C, pour the Phase B into the Phase A (little at a time, while stirring with a spatula). When all the Phase B is in the Phase A, it is time to use your stick blender or immersion mixer and create the emulsion.
Pay attention to not incorporate any air in the process (it might destabilize your emulsion in the future, if the cream is full of micro-bubbles).
Mix

5) Once it looks emulsified (it will still be quite liquid, however I noticed that this Hitecream emulsifier thickens pretty fast :) ) keep stirring with a spatula until the cream reaches room temperature.
Do not skip this step: when the emulsion is still hot and quite liquid it can easily break; stirring with a spatula helps the emulsion get stable.
Keep Stirring

6) Measure the oily Phase C:
(here are some new pictures for you… enjoy!!! :) )
Q101
The one on the left is the Q10! You can see what a wonderful orange rich color it has!
In the cream, however, it will become quite pale (we are using only 0.1% of it).
Mix it to the oils
Q10 2
Add the Alpha-Lipoic Acid (which is the pale yellow powder on the spoon)
Q10 3
Well done! :)
Add it to the emulsion, using a spatula.

6) Measure the Phase C and add it to the emulsion as well.

7) Give it a last mix with the immersion mixer! :)

That’s it! :D

Notice: I added a drop of yellow into the final cream, the color wouldn’t be so yellow otherwise :)

Did you like the recipe? :)
Any request? :)

 

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Sulfur Mask – for acne and oily skin

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Hello there! :D
I am finally back (and I have no excuses whatsoever) :)

The recipe of today is for all of you people struggling with an acneic skin or very oily skin, it is, in fact, a recipe for a mask that will really help you control the oiliness and will help dry up the pimples much faster! :)

Sulfur Mask DIY

I have to thank Biancospina from L’Angolo di Lola because my version was greatly inspired from her recipe.
I loved her idea of combining zinc oxide (which has great soothing properties – but leaves the face quite “white” and therefore it is great in a mask that can be washed off) and sulfur (you already know that it is good against acne and oily skin! :D ). I didn’t add salicylic acid because my mask is intended for a safe use mainly this spring and summer (salicylic acid shouldn’t be used in summer!) and I also changed most of the grease fall (simply because I don’t have her same ingredients available, so I used what I have ;) ).

Enough now, let’s go straight to the recipe! :D

[Are you new to my blog? Don't be discouraged by all these weird ingredients and this recipe that looks "impossible to make at home"… it is VERY POSSIBLE INDEED! :D Just read my other posts and everything will be clear and simple to your eyes as well! You can check all HERE
You already know the theory but you have no idea where you can find these ingredients? There are TONS of websites that sell high quality cosmetic ingredients online. I made a post with a list of those which I happened to use or that were suggested to me by readers of this blog. If you want to check it, you can find that list HERE.
You are welcome ;) ]

 RECIPE: 
Phase A: 
Water to 100 (you calculate it in the end, in order to make the whole recipe reach 100 grams)
Glycerin 2.5
Xanthan gum 0.5 (this is the gelling agent. I used the non-transparent one but you can use what you like)

Phase B: 
Methil Glucose Sesquistearate 3 (this is the emulsifier – you can use what you have if you don’t have this specific emulsifier: however, this is a good emulsifier :D I suggest you try it sometime! Very easy to use!)
Cetyl Alcohol 1.5 (this is the thickening agent and co-emulsifier – I used this much because I wanted the mask to be very thick: personal choice! If you want you can use only 1 gram)
Zinc Oxide 10 (I used this much because I don’t mind if the mask makes my face look a bit white for 10 minutes :D )
Sulfur (flowers, grinded, or powder) 1
Kokum Butter 2 
Shea Butter 1 
Grapeseed oil 3 (you can change the oils and butters of this recipe if you don’t have them. However you might want to read THIS post)
Tocopherol 1 (this is Vitamin E)

Phase C: 
Preservative (the one you are using. Add it, obviously, at its specific concentration – for example mine needs to be added at 0.6%)
Safflower oil 3 
Bisabolol 0.5 (this is a substance anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory properties)
D-Panthenol 1 (also known as Vitamin B-5)

This is it! :)
Now to the usual HOW TO:

1) We add the Xanthan Gum to the Glycerin and mix. It will become very thick because we are using a lot of Xanthan gum in this recipe: don’t be scared.
Sulphur Cream 1
2) We add water little by little (I obviously changed becher), until we get an uniform, nice gel:
Sulphur Cream 2
3) Now it is time to measure all the ingredients of our Phase B:
the yellow thing you see is the Sulfur powder, the white on the right is the Zinc Oxide, the brown is the Tocopherol (all the other ingredients are in the bottom of the glass).
Sulphur Cream 3
4) Now we heat up both Phases up to 70°C
(notice the consistency and the color of the Phase B: it is almost totally white because of the amount of Zinc Oxide)
Sulphur Cream 5
5) When they both reach 70°C, it is time to pour the Phase B into the Phase A and mix with an immersion mixer. (I don’t have a picture of this but I have many pictures in the other recipes I have posted)
6) Keep mixing with a spatula until the temperature goes down to room temperature.
7) Measure the Phase C (in the picture) and add it to the cream; mix very well with the spatula.
Sulphur Cream 4

That’s it! :)
As easy as that! :D

Now a couple of notes about this mask:
it DOES WORK. I have a medium-oily skin and this cream definitely helped me stop the oiliness.
I wouldn’t suggest you making this cream if you have acne but also dry skin (it would just dry your skin even more!).

If you make this mask I would suggest that you initially apply it once a week for only 5 minutes; then, if you like the results, you can try keeping it for up to 10 minutes but I wouldn’t go over this application time.

NOTE about THE SMELL:
as you might have noticed I haven’t added any fragrance to this cream, and this is simply because Sulfur has already a very “special” HELL-SMELL! :D
I don’t think it can be “hidden” with any fragrance so I just opted for leaving it alone: after all this is a recipe for a mask it doesn’t have to be kept on the face for too long!
However, let me say it: you will still smell it even after you have washed it off very carefully :D YOU ARE WARNED!!!

 

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This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

Caffeine & Escin Eye Cream DIY

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Hello there! :)

This new recipe for an Eye-Cream will work great against both blue circles and puffiness; so if you suffer of these, keep reading! ;)
When you apply it you really feel that the circulation of the skin is improving (it gives a rather lifting feeling)!
I am really satisfied!

Escin and Caffeine Eye Cream

I wrote “blue circles” and not the more generic “dark circles” because there are two different kinds of dark circles:
1) The first case is the dark circle caused by hyperpigmentation of the skin.
Some ethnic groups are more exposed to this kind of discoloration compared to others (for example some Indian people have almost black pigmentation in the under-eye area).
You realize if you are part of this group, just checking the color of your eye circles: if it looks brownish-black… then that’s it!
[ps. don't feel downhearted! It seems that people who have this kind of discoloration are less prone to developing wrinkles in the eye-area!! ;) ]
However, this recipe won’t help you against discoloration, because the recipe should contain totally different active-ingredients. I will post a recipe that tries to solve this “problem” if you want.

2) The second case (which we try to solve thanks to this recipe) are the bluish circles caused by leaking capillaries.
You see: the capillaries of the delicate under-eye area sometimes are so fragile that a bit of blood leaks out, the hemoglobin oxidizes (becoming bluish in color) and that’s it: we look as if we had a small hematoma just under the eyes. :D
If under your eyes you see a bluish circle, then this is your “problem” (as if these were the problems in life… :D ) and there is a lot we can do ;)

To help against leaking capillaries I have added in this formulation ESCIN!
ESCIN is a very good ingredient. Here are a few data on this ingredient:
- It is water soluble,
- It shouldn’t be heated (therefore in our recipes, if we are using emulsifiers which need to be heated, we add it in the Phase C)
- It can be added up to 2% of a formulation.
The main properties of Escin:
- Vasoprotector
- Vasocostrictor 
- Anty-Inflamatory
The bad thing about Escin is that it doesn’t smell good: it is not that bad, but it gives to the cream a “dusty” feeling. It can seem totally bearable in the beginning but it can irritate you after weeks of applying the cream :D

Another “Prince” Active-Ingredient of this recipe is, obviously, Caffeine (I have already written a post about Caffeine, you can read it HERE).
Caffeine helps mostly against puffiness because it improves the blood circulation (therefore helping the exceeding water to move out of the area).

[If this is the first post you read and you feel confused about formulation, I suggest you to first read the theory of making your cosmetic creams at home :) You can find the list of all the theoric posts and all the recipes HERE.
If you are confused on where to purchase these ingredients, I wrote a post about buying cosmetic ingredients online and I wrote a list of the most known, at least to me, websites for purchasing these ingredients online HERE]

Enough talking now! :)

RECIPE:

Phase A:
Water to 100 (HERE the explanation)
Betaine 5 
(this is NOT the surfactant called “cocamidopropyl betaine” but this is the Trimethylglycine – this ingredient helps making the cream more soothing and more smooth at the touch. If you don’t have it, you can omit it)
Glycerin 2
Caffeine 1
Escin 1.5
Hyaluronic Acid Gel
(My recipe HERE) 3

Phase B:
Murumuru butter 2 (you can substitute this butter with any other butter of your choice. I picked this one because it has low oleic acid compared to other butters but it is not an essential ingredient)
Cocoa butter 2 
(I used unrefined cocoa butter, refined is obviously fine as well and, if you want, you can substitute this ingredient with other butters of your choice)
Tocopherol 1 (this is Vitamin E)
Black Currant oil 2 (this oil composition is rich in linoleic acid which is very good for the skin – if you don’t have it, you can substitute with another oil high in linoleic acid)
Abil Care 85 – 2 **[INCI: Bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG16/16 Dimethicone; Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride]
Tinovis ADE – 1.2 **[INCI: Sodium Acrylates Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated Polydecene (and) PPG-1 Trideceth-6]

Phase C: 
Blueberry Powder Extract 0.4
Preservative (at the right concentration needed by your specific preservative)

Extra: add a few drops of an allergen-free Fragrance Oil (I don’t suggest adding Essential Oils because they are full of allergens and many are quite aggressive.)

** About this EMULSIFYING SYSTEM: Abil Care 85 is a silicon based emulsifier which can be used at room temperature and higher temperatures. It is silicon based and therefore it is not extremely eco-friendly. Tinovis ADE is a thickener which can be used without gelling the Phase A and must be used at room temperatures. Abil Care 85 and Tinovis ADE are a good combination for making creams with a good texture and in a fast way (since you don’t need to heat them to use them). I don’t like silicons on my skin but this is not a cream based on silicons, the amount of silicon in a cream emulsified with 2% Abil Care is much lower than 2% and that is totally acceptable by my skin.
However, if you don’t want to buy these two emulsifiers (let’s say you want to avoid silicons completely) then you can obviously use a different Emulsifying system. Just consider that you will have to add a gelling agent in Phase A, you will have to create a larger Phase C (with Escin, hyaluronic acid gel, black currant oil) and you will need to heat up the Phase A and Phase B at the needed temperature for your emulsifying system.
If you have doubts, read the theory HERE and check other recipes HERE.

Now finally the HOW TO:
1) Measure and add in a becher the water (you have previously calculated the right amount of water ;) ) and the Glycerin.

2) Add Caffeine
Escin and Caffeine Eye Cream2

3) You can see that the caffeine doesn’t “melt” inside the water easily
Escin and Caffeine Eye Cream3 Escin and Caffeine Eye Cream4

4) Heat up the water with caffeine just a little, until it becomes all transparent again.
Escin and Caffeine Eye Cream5

5) When the water is not warm anymore, add Escin
Escin and Caffeine Eye Cream6

6) Eventually add Hyaluronic acid gel and betaine (it should look like the picture below: it is not transparent because of the escin, what is important is that there are no residues left on the bottom because it would mean that it is not “melted” in the water). Set aside.
Escin and Caffeine Eye Cream9

7) Measure the Murumuru butter and the Cocoa butter, then heat it up until they are melted
Escin and Caffeine Eye Cream7

8) Add the remaining ingredients of the Phase B and add them to the Phase A
Escin and Caffeine Eye Cream8

9) This is how bad it looks when you pour the Phase B into the Phase A
Escin and Caffeine Eye Cream10

10) Mix with your immersion mixer
Escin and Caffeine Eye Cream11

11) Aside measure the Blueberry Powder Extract and the Preservative. Add a little bit of cream and mix in order to start “melting” the blueberry powder.
Escin and Caffeine Eye Cream12

12) Add the Phase C to the cream.
Escin and Caffeine Eye Cream13

This is it! :)

Escin and Caffeine Eye Cream14

I hope you enjoyed this recipe: I love it :D

Have a great day! :D

Any suggestion about a recipe you would like me to formulate? :)

 

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This recipe is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

Lactobionic Acid Cream DIY

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Hello there!
I did promise you I would have posted a recipe of a new face cream and here it is ;)

Lactobionic Cream 10

[If this is the first post you read of this blog… you might want to check the Index of the website first :D there are many posts about how to make REAL creams at home. Learn a little bit of theory and this page will start making sense too :D GO HERE you won't be sorry! ]

This cream has a quite consistent oil phase (or Phase B) because I needed it for winter, however (after one month of trial) I don’t think it is enough greasy for people with dry skin or who live in very cold countries (I find myself in Finland at the moment and at -20°C my skin was still dry :D ).
For this cream I tried to formulate a different grease-fall compared to what I usually make because, even though I have a quite oily skin, I have found out that low-density oils appear on my skin much more easily than more heavy ones (that’s because usually the lower the density of an oil, the higher the spreading ability). So that’s it, I tried adding more butters than I normally do and I must say my skin liked it, even though I am still not totally satisfied with the feel of this cream and I will definitely have to experiment much more before I find the “perfect grease-fall” (for winter :D cause for spring, rainy days, summer… blablabla that will be a total different story :D ).

AH YES! :D
The active ingredients :D
In this cream there are quite a bunch :D but the PRINCE ingredient here is LACTOBIONIC ACID! This acid is a strong antioxidant (it should therefore have also a good action again light pigmentation of the skin, so to say: if you have little brown spots “after pimple”), it has good hydrating properties and, being a (mild) acid it also helps the exfoliation of skin and therefore its renewal :D
It can be used from 2% up to 15% and it is usually used in substitution of other stronger acids (let’s say, for instance, glicolic acid) because it is not as strong and therefore it is more suitable for sensible skins.
Instead of leaving this Lactobionic Acid alone, however, I paired it with another good active ingredient: GLUCONOLACTONE! Also this one is a mild acid and doesn’t become aggressive once on the skin. Lactobionic acid and gluconolactone together, help fighting pigmentation of the skin caused by oxidation.

Because this acid would make the cream have a too low pH for the carbomer (carbopol ultrez 21) to work, I decided to simply omit it and rise the % of Xanthan gum up to 0.2%.

Now, TO THE RECIPE! :D

Phase A:
Water to 100
(HERE the explanation)
Glycerin 1.5 
Xanthan gum (non transparent grade) 0.2
Lactobionic Acid 3 
Trimetilglicine 3 (it has soothing properties, you can omit it if you don’t have it)

Phase B:
Cetiol Sensoft 3
Tocopherol (Vitamin E) 1
Murumuru butter 2
Kokum butter 2
Jojoba oil 1
Metil glucose sesquistearate 3
Cetyl alcohol 1
cetyl palmitate 0.5

Phase C (oily): 
Safflower oil 3
Dry flo 0.5
Aperoxid 3 drops

Phase C (hydro): 
Gluconolactone acid 2 
Water 10
(caustic soda solution 20% to bring pH up to 4.5)

Sodium Lactate 3 (helps hydration of the skin, you can omit it)
Cosgard 0.6 (or any other preservative used at the concentration needed for 100 grams)

HOW TO:
1) Measure the Phase A and warm it up to 70°C (for the record: you add glycerin, you add xanthan gum to it, you mix and then add the water where you have already poured lactobionic acid and trimetilglicine little by little)
Lactobionic Cream 2
It will form a light gel.

2) Measure the Phase B and warm it up in a double boiler (notice my extra professional double boiler system :D ) up to 70°C.
Lactobionic Cream 1
3) Once both the Phases have reached 70°C pour the Phase B into Phase A and mix with an immersion mixer like we have always done with any other cream
Lactobionic Cream 3
It will be very liquid and it is fine.
DON’T PANIC and keep stirring it until it cools down to room temperature (might take 30 min).

4) Add the Phase C (oily)
Lactobionic Cream 4

5) Make the Phase C (hydro) checking that the pH is not lower than 4.5
Lactobionic Cream 5

6) Add it to the cream, add also the preservative and the sodium lactate (you can also add few drops of cosmetic grade fragrance oil or essential oil) and use the immersion mixer again, then check the pH (it should be 4.5, if it is not… adjust it so it becomes 4.5 :D )
Lactobionic Cream 6

7) Keep it in the container for a couple of days, mixing it every now and then (of course cover the becher with some plastic wrap paper so nothing will fall inside, specially not dust :D ), this is because the cream will thicken up in a few days.
Lactobionic Cream 7

ENJOY!!! :D :D :D

Lactobionic Cream 9

Comment on the cream:
I like this cream a lot but the consistency is more liquid than I expected and I would like to find another gelling agent which will resist acid pH (Xanthan gum is not the best: it gives a weird finish to the cream :D ). I will also have to improve the grease-fall, probably increasing even more the butters and lowering the cetiol sensoft :D

Let me know what you think and if you try making it and if you have any idea on how to improve it! :D

Cheers!
UPDATE!
I am IN LOVE with this cream!!! I have been using it for months now and I truly truly truly love it! :) 
It is hydrating, it doesn’t make my skin oily, it makes my skin glow… I made so much (I think I made 500 gr of cream :D ) that I have been using it also as a mask and I adore it! :) 
Let me know if you try making it! 

 

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Babassu Body Cream – Recipe

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Hello there! :D

I did make the new face cream of which I was talking about in the last post but I will post that recipe a little later: I want to test it first and be able to give you the review also :D

[IF YOU ARE NEW to my blog, you might want to check the theory of how to make "as close as professional" creams at home :D you can do it HERE at the site index! And don't be scared thinking "I cannot do it", "it is too complicated" because everything looks complicated before you learn it :D so grit your teeth for a while and enjoy later ;) On the same page there is also a link to my post where I show you where you can buy cosmetic ingredients online! :D ]

The recipe of today will be of a BODY CREAM, made with a new (to this blog) emulsifier! :D
Usually in body creams there is not too much need for active ingredients (or this, however, is my opinion) because it is already good enough if we have the consistency of applying the cream everyday ;) however I choose to add in this cream precious fats like the Babassu oil and Shea Butter.

Are you ready for the recipe??? :D

Babassu Body Cream
(…and who would have ever thought I could take such a picture! :D I could ALMOST look like an amateur photographer! :D )

RECIPE: 
Phase A: 
Water to 100 (HERE the explanation)
Glycerin – 5 
Xanthan Gum (non transparent kind) – 0.2 – you can use transparent kind if you have that one.
Carbopol Utrez 21 – 0.4 

Phase B: 
Methil Glucose Distearate – 3.5 (this is the new emulsifier I am using in this cream. The feel is slightly lighter than the methyl glucose sesquistearate so I am thinking I will try this emulsifier for face creams as well. The percentage of use is slightly higher than MGS so 3.5 to 4% will do)
Cetyl Alcohol – 0.8 
Cetyl Palmitate – 0.7 
Shea Butter – 6 
Babassu Oil – 8 
Rose hip Oil – 3 (if you have other oils you can substitute these with what you have as long as you bear in mind the density of the oils I am using: to substitute properly you should use oils with similar density) ;)
Dicaprylyl Ether – 3 (light synthetic oil which will help having a dry feel in the cream)

Phase C: 
Hydrolized Oat Proteins – 3 (you can substitute this with any hydrolyzed proteins like for example silk, grains, milk…)
Allantoin – 0.4 (I like allantoin and I add it in close to any cream I make: it has soothing properties, it is not expensive and it has to be used at a very small percentage or it doesn’t disperse properly in the cream. It used to be difficult to disperse it before… until I found out that it “melts” in hydrolyzed proteins… this is why I always associate allantoin and hydrolyzed proteins together! ;) However if you don’t have it do not despair: it is not necessary!)
Preservative (at the percentage which the specific preservative which you are using requires)
Fragrance Oil – few drops

Straight to the HOW TO! 

1) You measure glycerin and xanthan gum:
Xanthan Gum Glycerin
here it was not mixed yet.
You mix it and add a little amount of water to it (let’s say 10 gr).

2) You measure the Carbopol Utrez 21 and set it aside.
You measure the remaining water in a big becher (you just used 10 gr in the previous step, so you have to consider it ;) )
You pour the Carbopol on top of the water and let it rest WITHOUT MIXING.
Water and Carbopol Utrez 21
as you can see the powder seems to sit on top of the water.
It will hydrate slowly and if you try to mix with a spatula to make it faster… the Carbomer will actually stick to your spatula without hydrating. So let it be for a while and you will see that it will change and become like this:
Water and Carbomer after 5 min
If you look closely you can see that it is not yet a gel but it is still water with inside little whitish pieces: that’s how it is supposed to look like (just remember that Carbopol Utrez 21 becomes gel at pH 5 precisely).

3) Measure the Phase B and heat it up together with the water and carbopol (don’t worry: we will add the xanthan gel very soon)
Phase A and Phase B

4) Measure the temperature. When they both reach approx 70°C, add the xanthan gel to the water:
xanthan gel and carbopol gel

5) After having checked the temperature (do not skip this!!! :D I know it is very tempting to think that “it looks hot enough” but the thing is that if your temperature is too low, the cream won’t emulsify well enough and after a few days the oils will start coming on the surface of the cream, so why to risk ;) ) take them off from fire and pour the Phase B into the Phase A.
You should pour it little by little while stirring or (even better) already mixing with the immersion mixer.
In order to take the picture I had to stop stirring for a moment… but YOU DON’T DO THAT!!! :D :D :D
Phase B in Phase A
This is the most critical part so pay attention!

6) Now it’s time for the immersion mixer! :D
You will see that it will immediately become white but it will still be very liquid compared to the cream you were dreaming about:
Mix
But do not despair :D just keep mixing with the immersion mixer until everything looks well emulsified: the cream will start thickening up once it cools down and not before! ;)
I will teach you a little trick on finding out wether your cream is well emulsified or not :) maybe I will make a post about it :)

7) Now that it looks well emulsified IT IS NOT FINISHED! In fact if you let it rest when it is still hot… it will probably separate again! In order to keep emulsified you will have to stir the cream until it is cooled down. This might take 30 minutes but you can always place the becher in cold water so it will cool down faster (I do that all the time :D ).
Keep Stirring
As you can see it already looks a little bit thick… but that’s nothing yet! :D

8) Measure and add the Phase C:
Phase C

9) Stir gently again until the Phase C is homogeneously melted in the cream. Check the pH and adjust it to 5.5 (mine was already 5.5).
Tadaaa

NOW… if the cream is really cooled down you COULD pour it in a jar.
I don’t suggest you to do so: the Cetyl alcohol and the Cetyl palmitate (the thickening agents) will keep thickening your cream for the next hours and actually for the next couple of days.
When making a cream containing these two ingredients I always prefere to leave the cream in the becher for a couple of days (obviously covered with plastic wrap and kept in a safe place) so that I can stir it every now and then: in fact if you pour it in the jar immediately after you make it, the cream will end up looking a little weird :D (I don’t know how to explain this any better… you will know it if you do it :D ).

If you wait, instead, it will look this cool: soft and smooth :D :D :D
Body cream itsallinmyhands

Hope you enjoyed it! :D
Let me know if you try making it or if you have any question! :D
Have a great day!!!

 

 

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Silky Body Cream

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Hello there!
I am back with a new extra fast recipe for a silky silky body cream!!! :D

Silkybodycream

[WAIT! If this is the first post of my blog you read… you might want to check the index of the blog so you can learn the basics ;) just follow THIS LINK and you will find all you need to know about how to formulate real cosmetics at home, where to buy ingredients and how to make them!]

The key ingredient of this recipe is Sodium Polyacrilate! (Wikipedia says: “also known as waterlock, is a sodium salt of polyacrylic acid with the chemical formula [-CH2-CH(COONa)-]n and broad application in consumer products. It has the ability to absorb as much as 200 to 300 times its mass in water.”)
IT IS ALMOST LIKE MAGIC!!! :D
If you have ever made creams before, using thickening agents and emulsifiers which needed to be heated up to 70°C… you can forget about all the mess made by double boilers and having to check the temperature because nothing of this is needed!!! YAY :D
This wonderful powder, at just 1%, is an amazing thickening agent and it emulsifies between 10% to 20% fats just by using a SPOON! It doesn’t need heating, it doesn’t need tricky mixing with an immersion mixer… just a spoon! It creates a cream with a light and silky feel…
I couldn’t believe it but… when I finally tried it, eventually I had to! :D

The bad side about Sodium Polyacrilate is that it does not work fine with certain ingredients – mostly salts –  like, for example, urea and sodium hyaluronate. So… bear this in mind if you want to make a recipe of your own and not follow mine! ;)
Also, I think (but this is my opinion and nothing stops you to use it otherwise) it is best for body creams rather than face creams: first of all for the fact that it needs a minimum of 10% fats and secondly because the silky feel on the skin of the face is a bit “too much” IMO. :D

Now… ENOUGH: to the recipe!!!

RECIPE: (for 100gr of product. In the pictures I made much more than 100gr).

Phase A
Water to 100 (HERE the explanation)
Sodium Polyacrilate 1.5 
Glicerin 5
Hydrolized Silk Proteins 2

Phase B 
Safflower oil 5 
Jojoba oil 5 
Sweet almond oil 5 
Dry flo 1 (this is a powder of a modified starch which will help the cream to not feel greasy even though it contains 15% of fats ;) )

D-Panthenol 2 
Fragrance oil (few drops of your favorite fragrance oil – cosmetic grade)
Preservative (the quantity depends on the specific cosmetic preservative you own. For this recipe you can use either water soluble or oil soluble with no problems. In my case it needed to be used at 0.6%)

Now to the EXTRA SIMPLE HOW TO:

1) Add glycerin, silk proteins and water; eventually pour Sodium Polyacrilate on top of Phase A:
DSCN0223

2) Start mixing with a spatula.
Don’t freak out immediately because it is initially going to look like this:
DSCN0224
TRULY TRULY DON’T DESPAIR!!! :D It is fine…

3) Keep stirring for approx one minute and TADAAA :D
DSCN0225
It will start to look more like an homogeneous gel.
Here it is still not good enough… but it gives the idea of how silky it becomes in just a little stirring ;) )

4) Add the Phase B
DSCN0226

5) And now stir!!!
DSCN0227
6) Eventually add the few left ingredients (preservative, fragrance oil and D-Panthenol) and keep stirring again! :D
As you can see from the picture above it will already be a nice cream with a bit of translucent feel…
But here is the result after I very briefly decided to use the immersion mixer:

DSCN0228

And this all in a matter of 10 minutes :D
I couldn’t believe it!!! :D

DSCN0230

Hope you liked this recipe!!! ;)
Let me know in the comments!
And let me know if you have any question in case you want to build a recipe of your own! Would be glad to help ;)

 

 

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Autumn Dream – Face Cream

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Autumn Cream 13

 

I don’t even know how I came up with such a cheesy name for this cream, but let me admit that I ALMOST feel like a poet! :D (well ok, I might be joking here… ;) )

I had promised that I would have finally posted the recipe and the “how to – pictures” of the autumn cream I am using right now… so here it is! :D
It is my “autumn” cream because it has a bit higher % of fats compared to the cream I make for summer, and also because, since I have utterly sensitive skin which happily gets all red and paining with the first colds, I have added a lot of active ingredients with soothing properties! :D
Since my “perfect fat % for autumn cream” is indeed a very personal thing, I will add in the recipe few modifications you can do in case you have normal or dry skin! (after all, lotion making is all about being able to make what suits ourselves best! ;) ).

IMPORTANT: If you are new to the world of (let’s say “serious”) DIY Lotion Making… well, this post might make you feel little bit confused! But DO NOT DESPAIR for I have gone through each and every step in my previous posts! :D
On top of the page you can reach the Index of the blog or you can start HERE by reading the first part of  the theory of lotion making :D

If, instead, you already know what’s behind and you want to know where to buy the cosmetic ingredients (cause most of the ingredients in this recipe cannot be found in a normal shop and often not even at the chemist… or well, if you find them there, they might charge you a lot more money than online) HERE you can find a list of websites that sell them online!

All done?
Good!
Now we are ready to go! :D

This is the RECIPE:

Phase A
Water to 100 (HERE the explanation)
Glycerin 3
Xanthan Gum 0.2 (I realized my carbopol utrez 21 had expired so I could only use the xanthan gum. If, however, you do own that carbomer, you could add 0.3 of it and lower xanthan gum to 0.15 or 0.1. With only xanthan gum the cream comes out anyway but it has a better touch if it contains carbomer) ;)

Phase B 
Murumuru butter 0.5 (Normal skin: 1.5, Dry skin: 2.5)
Safflower oil 0.5 (Normal skin 1.5, Dry skin 2.5)
Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate 3 (this is the emulsifier. If you don’t have this one but have another one, you can substitute it freely. However remember that the procedure to make this face cream may change if you change the emulsifier so it’s important you know how to use the one you have :D )
Cetyl palmitate 1 (this is a thickening agent and in this amount won’t make the cream very thick but it will be a soft cream. If you like thick thick cream that won’t move around that easily in a pot… you might want to use cetyl palmitate at 2% or you might keep it at 1% and add another thickening agent like cetyl alcohol at 1%)
Tocopherol 0.5 (this is vitamin E, if you like you can add up to 1)
Propylheptyl Caprylate 1.5 (this is a very light synthetic oil which doesn’t have other property than making the cream feel very light too. Normal skin 2, Dry skin 3)

Oily Phase C: 
Bisabolol 0.5 (this is a soothing active ingredient. It is quite expensive but it is worth it :D )
Black Currant Oil 1 (this is a medium natural oil which is said to have good properties against rosacea and, in general, it is good for the capillary… good to have it in a cream in winter time when the capillary go through a lot of stress! Normal skin: 1.5, Dry skin: 2)
Dry Flo 0.5 (this is actually the commercial name of an hydrophobically modified corn starch: it helps to not get a shiny face after applying the cream: good if you have bit oily skin – you can add up to 1%-, but I like to add it also for any other kind of face cream because it gives a better finish ;) my opinion).

Water Soluble Phase C: 
Hydrolized Silk Proteins 2 (if you have any other hydrolized protein, like milk, oat… it should do just fine :D )
Allantoin 0.4 (usually I mix these two together first because Allantoin disperses very well in hydrolized proteins for me! :D )
Water 5 (this is just normal water which I add to better “melt” the next dry ingredients. Of course it has to be included in the final calculation to know how much water to add in the Phase A without exceeding 100 gr)
Dry Extract of Vitis Vinifera 0.2 (it’s a powder and it has good properties, once again, for capillaries. You can find it in creams for rosacea skin or for leg circulation! Very good! :D )
Dry extract of Raspberry 0.1 (also this one is a powder. If you don’t have it you can omit it)
Dry extract of licorice 0.2 (of course a powder as well :D this one contained 20% of Glycyrrhizic Acid, which has very good soothing properties!)
*The only bad thing about adding dry extracts from plants is that usually they don’t have exactly a white color (you will see in the pictures :D ) and therefore they change the color to your cream :D, also, they might have some kind of smell! You might as well purchase directly pure active ingredients like, for example, glycyrrhizic acid… but in this case it is a difficult ingredient to work with. Plus I like colored creams :D so this is my choice :D *
Hyaluronic Acid Gel (which we made HERE) 5

Preservative (mine goes at 0.6, but depending on the one you have you will have to add it at its own requested %)
pH 5.5

Well done!
If you made it till here… here we go with the HOW TO! :D

NOTICE I made this cream not for 100 gr but for 1 Kg… so don’t get confused if you see a big amount of ingredients :D (it is not easy to make only 100 gr of cream because it is very difficult to mix it properly when it comes to putting together Phase A and B, I suggest you make at least 300 grams to have a better result :D)

Phase A:
- measure glycerin and xanthan gum (if you are also using the carbopol utrez 21, follow the instructions HERE)
Autumn Cream 1
- measure water and add it little by little stirring with a spatula :D
Autumn Cream 2
Set aside.

Phase B: 
- measure all ingredients and put them together.
Autumn Cream 3
(yes it is not very visible but here you are supposed to see all the ingredients of phase B :D)

- put both Phase A and Phase B on fire to make them reach 70°C. In the meanwhile let’s measure the two Phase C! :D

- Oily Phase C:
Autumn Crem 4

- Water soluble Phase C:
Autumn Cream 5
(as you can see… not exactly white color extracts! :D eheheh :D)

Now back to our Phase A and B, which got heated up to 70°C :D
Autumn Cream 6
This is heated Phase A (it is not very visible but I wanted to show you that it is a gel)

- Pour, little by little, Phase B into Phase A (I was alone so I couldn’t take picture of this cause with one hand i was adding Phase B and with the other I was mixing with a spatula! :D)

- Mix with the immersion mixer paying attention that you don’t add any air into the cream!
It will immediately change color into very white :D
Like here:
Autumn Cream 7

- once you believe that you mixed enough, start mixing with a spatula and keep stirring until it gets to room temperature!
This seems silly but it is very very important: at this point of time the oils and the water might still separate so if you keep stirring you actually help them keep together :D once they have cooled down they are more likely to not separate! Là! :D
As you can see from the picture (probably) the “cream” is actually still very liquid! This is because the picture was taken when the mixture was still very hot. The thickening of cetyl palmitate will occur only once the cream has fully cooled down (and it actually continues after a couple of days) so don’t despair at all: at this point it is not supposed to be thick… yet! ;)
Autumn Cream 8

- Once it reached room temperature you can finally add the two Phase C!
Autumn Cream 9

- Stir with spatula:
Autumn Cream 10

- Add preservative

- Use immersion mixer one last time just to make things more smooth ;)

- Check pH and adjust it to 5.5 pH (using an acid like, for example, lactic acid.. but in my case I didn’t need to adjust it because it was already 5.5)

And… TADAAAAA :D
Autumn Cream 11

Now apply and enjoy… ;)
 

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Pink Sugar Frosting Body Lotion (Recipe)

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Hello everybody! :D

Today I am going to share with you a recipe for a body cream.

DSCF3571

[If you are new to the making of lotions at home... you might want to run here! :D
If you already know the basics but miss the ingredients you might want to read the post about where to buy cosmetic ingredients online (here!) :D ]

I made this cream for a good friend who just requested a good body cream for dry skin.
My intention was to get a very emollient cream (which often means “an important and well studied oily phase”) with few active ingredients to do good to the skin (we don’t want to use active ingredients only on our face: we can afford to use some also on the rest of our body ;) ).

How I proceeded:
Picking the oils: being a body cream I wasn’t too concerned about using comedogenic oils or butters. This is why I used a 5% of Shea Butter (which, whatever you read online, is comedogenic due to its fatty acid composition… In case, you can read more about it here) without thinking twice. Shea butter is heaven for the skin of our body. As medium density oil I added Borage oil and Safflower oil, but the main part of my “Grease-Fall” was made of light and extra light oils (to be really honest Jojoba oil is a wax and the other two were synthetic oils which have the very good property of improving the feel of the cream on the skin. If you want to use only natural oils I will add options at the end of the post on how to change the recipe :D ).

Picking the emulsifier: I know nowadays there is this huge fuss against silicones and I can understand why, to some extent: I have found out that the skin of my face doesn’t appreciate silicones :D, I am not saying that everybody shouldn’t apply silicones creams to their face, I am just saying what my skin doesn’t like it: if I apply a cream or foundation containing silicones (even in very low percentage)… the morning after I am 1000% sure I will have extremely small pimples all over my face.
This is why, however cool the silicone based emulsifier is, I never emulsify a face-cream with it.
Luckily this is not the case for my body-skin so I do use it in body lotions and totally enjoy it! :D
This is why you find a silicone based emulsifier in this recipe: it doesn’t need to be heated (no double boiler needed yeheee!), it has a very very low chance to fail (which means the cream won’t separate into oily phase and water phased easily, on the contrary…) and it gives a very smooth, velvety feel to the cream.
[However, if you wish to use another emulsifier, of course you can. Read the end of the post for details about substitution].

Picking the Active Ingredients: since it is not a face-cream, it won’t be packed in active ingredients; however we do want to give our body skin some good ingredients! For this cream I have picked Panthenol (also called Vitamin B5), Allantoin, Oat hydrolized proteins, Tocopherol (Vitamin E) and I also added some of the hyaluronic acid gel which you can make following the instructions here. :D
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient. I love it but it might be difficult to disperse it: I found, however, that mixing it with hydrolized proteins helps to dissolve it very fast so whenever I use Allantoin I also add some kind of hydrolized proteins and that does the trick! :D

Now it is time for THE RECIPE :D
(notice that dividing Phase A, B and C is not necessary and you could add all the ingredients to Phase A and B according to their solubility… however I am used to do so and so I will keep the phases separated also in case you will intend to change emulsifier!)

Phase A: 
Water to 100 (HERE the explanation)
Glycerin 5 
Carbopol Utrez 21 0.1 (you can omit this gelling agent because we are going to use a fat-soluble gelling agent)

Phase B: 
Abil Care 85 – 2 (Inci name: Bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG-16/16 Dimethicone; Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) As you can see from the Inci name, this is the silicon based emulsifier. You can substitute this emulsifier with any other emulsifier you have, what you have to keep in mind, however, is that the “How to” will also change: you will have to use the amount needed of the emulsifier you have (it might be 3% or 5% or whatever) and you might have to heat up Phase A and Phase B up to 70°C therefore, if you intend to change emulsifier, change also everything else accordingly! :D
Tinovis ADE – 1.5 (Inci name:  Sodium Acrylates Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated Polydecene (and) PPG-1 Trideceth-6) This is out gelling agent. The combination of Abil Care 85 and Tinovis ADE gives a good silky cream. However, once again, you might want to use xanthan gum if that’s what you have: in this case use xanthan gum at 0.4% and of course use it in the Phase A. In case you have Tinovis and not Abil Care, notice that Tinovis does not bear heat so, if you are using an emulsifier which needs to be heated up… add Tinovis to the Phase C and not before! :D
Shea butter – 5
Safflower oil – 3 
Borage oil – 3 
Jojoba oil – 5 
Dycaprylyl Ether – 5 (this is a very light synthetic oil which helps giving a light touch to the cream. If you don’t have it or you don’t intend to use synthetic oils in your creams, you can substitute it by increasing the amount of Jojoba oil: the result won’t be same but it will be as close as it can get!)
Cetiol Sensoft – 5 (Inci name: Propylheptyl Caprylate) (this is another very light synthetic oil. I think it is one of the lightest of all. The other good quality of this product is that it gives a silicon-like feel to the cream even if it is not a silicon. However, if you don’t have it or don’t intend to use this, you can still increase the percentage of the jojoba oil)
Tocopherol 1
Phase C: 
Allantoin 0.35
Oat Hydrolized Proteins 1.65 (mix the Allantoin and the Proteins very well together)
Panthenol (water soluble 75% solution) 1
Preservative (at the amount required from the one you are specifically using)
Fragrance Oil – few drops  - I added Pink Sugar from Gracefruit  :D

ENJOY!!! :D

DSCF3570

 

 

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Sebum Normalizer cream Recipe

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DSCF3535

This is a cream made specifically for oily skin and for spring days! :D
There are two important active ingredients in this cream which will perform the function of oil-controllers:
- Azelaic Acid 
- Tiolisine 

The Azelaic Acid however is insoluble in water or oil therefore it is very difficult for us to use it in our home production (you can find it in online shops of raw materials but I don’t know how it could be used since it is impossible to melt it or dissolve it properly in any liquid)… this is why in this recipe I have used a derivative of Azelaic Acid called Azeloglicine (it contains approx 30% of Azelaic Acid in a hydrophilic form! Bingo! :D).
Azelaic Acid is mainly used for its oil-control properties but it is also used to treat acne (both comedonal and inflammatory) because it kills the bacteria which cause acne and it also decreases the production of keratin which is a substance that promotes the growth of bacteria.
Tiolisine is a sulfurated aminoacid derivative which also has sebum-normalizing properties and it is usually used between 2-4% (3-5% in detergents like shampoo for dandruff).

The recipe I have made for this cream is as simple as possible.
Now I write the recipe and then I explain some more things:

RECIPE: [in case you are new to the making of creams, HERE you can learn what I am talking about ;)]
PHASE A:
water to 100 (HERE the explanation)
xanthan gum 0.11 (possibly not the transparent kind: for gels the transparent xanthan gum is good, for creams the other is better)
carbopol utrez 21 0.3
glycerin 2.5

PHASE B:
Methyl glucose sesquistearate 2 (I use this low percentage because the oils in this cream are very low)
Cetyl Alcohol 0.8
Cetiol sensoft 1.5
Evening Primrose Oil 1
Hemp oil 0.5
Tocopherol 1

PHASE C 1 : 
Bisabolol 0.5
Dry Flo (INCI aluminum starch octenyl succinate) 0.7

PHASE C 2 :
Azeloglicine 6
Tiolisine Complex 2.5

Preservative 0.6 (or according to the right percentage of use of your own preservative).

Adjust the pH at 5.5 – 6
The oil percentage is so low it could be considered an oil-free cream.
The consistency of the cream is rather fluid: I always have the feeling that thick creams are more suitable for dry skins (at least this is the feeling I get: if a cream is thick, I unconsciously associate it with the idea of a “too rich” cream for an oily skin), while fluid lotions give me better the idea of something light. So this is all up to you (if you want a thick cream you can rise the cetyl alcohol up to 1.5%… but since this is like a wax on our skin, I don’t recommend it :D).
Cetiol Sensoft is a very light synthetic oil which gives a smooth touch to the cream. If you want to avoid using synthetic oils and you wish to use only natural oils, you could substitute this ingredient with the same amount of jojoba oil (which is a bit more dense but it is the lightest natural “oil”).

Hope this was helpful to those of you who have trouble with oily skin!
Let me know if it worked for you ;)

HAVE A GREAT DAY! :D