I did promise you I would have posted a recipe of a new face cream and here it is
[If this is the first post you read of this blog… you might want to check the Index of the website first there are many posts about how to make REAL creams at home. Learn a little bit of theory and this page will start making sense too GO HERE you won't be sorry! ]
This cream has a quite consistent oil phase (or Phase B) because I needed it for winter, however (after one month of trial) I don’t think it is enough greasy for people with dry skin or who live in very cold countries (I find myself in Finland at the moment and at -20°C my skin was still dry ).
For this cream I tried to formulate a different grease-fall compared to what I usually make because, even though I have a quite oily skin, I have found out that low-density oils appear on my skin much more easily than more heavy ones (that’s because usually the lower the density of an oil, the higher the spreading ability). So that’s it, I tried adding more butters than I normally do and I must say my skin liked it, even though I am still not totally satisfied with the feel of this cream and I will definitely have to experiment much more before I find the “perfect grease-fall” (for winter cause for spring, rainy days, summer… blablabla that will be a total different story ).
The active ingredients
In this cream there are quite a bunch but the PRINCE ingredient here is LACTOBIONIC ACID! This acid is a strong antioxidant (it should therefore have also a good action again light pigmentation of the skin, so to say: if you have little brown spots “after pimple”), it has good hydrating properties and, being a (mild) acid it also helps the exfoliation of skin and therefore its renewal
It can be used from 2% up to 15% and it is usually used in substitution of other stronger acids (let’s say, for instance, glicolic acid) because it is not as strong and therefore it is more suitable for sensible skins.
Instead of leaving this Lactobionic Acid alone, however, I paired it with another good active ingredient: GLUCONOLACTONE! Also this one is a mild acid and doesn’t become aggressive once on the skin. Lactobionic acid and gluconolactone together, help fighting pigmentation of the skin caused by oxidation.
Because this acid would make the cream have a too low pH for the carbomer (carbopol ultrez 21) to work, I decided to simply omit it and rise the % of Xanthan gum up to 0.2%.
Now, TO THE RECIPE!
Water to 100
Xanthan gum (non transparent grade) 0.2
Lactobionic Acid 3
Trimetilglicine 3 (it has soothing properties, you can omit it if you don’t have it)
Cetiol Sensoft 3
Tocopherol (Vitamin E) 1
Murumuru butter 2
Kokum butter 2
Jojoba oil 1
Metil glucose sesquistearate 3
Cetyl alcohol 1
cetyl palmitate 0.5
Phase C (oily):
Safflower oil 3
Dry flo 0.5
Aperoxid 3 drops
Phase C (hydro):
Gluconolactone acid 2
(caustic soda solution 20% to bring pH up to 4.5)
Sodium Lactate 3 (helps hydration of the skin, you can omit it)
Cosgard 0.6 (or any other preservative used at the concentration needed for 100 grams)
1) Measure the Phase A and warm it up to 70°C (for the record: you add glycerin, you add xanthan gum to it, you mix and then add the water where you have already poured lactobionic acid and trimetilglicine little by little)
It will form a light gel.
2) Measure the Phase B and warm it up in a double boiler (notice my extra professional double boiler system ) up to 70°C.
3) Once both the Phases have reached 70°C pour the Phase B into Phase A and mix with an immersion mixer like we have always done with any other cream
It will be very liquid and it is fine.
DON’T PANIC and keep stirring it until it cools down to room temperature (might take 30 min).
6) Add it to the cream, add also the preservative and the sodium lactate (you can also add few drops of cosmetic grade fragrance oil or essential oil) and use the immersion mixer again, then check the pH (it should be 4.5, if it is not… adjust it so it becomes 4.5 )
7) Keep it in the container for a couple of days, mixing it every now and then (of course cover the becher with some plastic wrap paper so nothing will fall inside, specially not dust ), this is because the cream will thicken up in a few days.
Comment on the cream:
I like this cream a lot but the consistency is more liquid than I expected and I would like to find another gelling agent which will resist acid pH (Xanthan gum is not the best: it gives a weird finish to the cream ). I will also have to improve the grease-fall, probably increasing even more the butters and lowering the cetiol sensoft
Let me know what you think and if you try making it and if you have any idea on how to improve it!