Category Archives: Creams

Caffeine & Escin Eye Cream DIY

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Hello there! :)

This new recipe for an Eye-Cream will work great against both blue circles and puffiness; so if you suffer of these, keep reading! ;)
When you apply it you really feel that the circulation of the skin is improving (it gives a rather lifting feeling)!
I am really satisfied!

Escin and Caffeine Eye Cream

I wrote “blue circles” and not the more generic “dark circles” because there are two different kinds of dark circles:
1) The first case is the dark circle caused by hyperpigmentation of the skin.
Some ethnic groups are more exposed to this kind of discoloration compared to others (for example some Indian people have almost black pigmentation in the under-eye area).
You realize if you are part of this group, just checking the color of your eye circles: if it looks brownish-black… then that’s it!
[ps. don't feel downhearted! It seems that people who have this kind of discoloration are less prone to developing wrinkles in the eye-area!! ;) ]
However, this recipe won’t help you against discoloration, because the recipe should contain totally different active-ingredients. I will post a recipe that tries to solve this “problem” if you want.

2) The second case (which we try to solve thanks to this recipe) are the bluish circles caused by leaking capillaries.
You see: the capillaries of the delicate under-eye area sometimes are so fragile that a bit of blood leaks out, the hemoglobin oxidizes (becoming bluish in color) and that’s it: we look as if we had a small hematoma just under the eyes. :D
If under your eyes you see a bluish circle, then this is your “problem” (as if these were the problems in life… :D ) and there is a lot we can do ;)

To help against leaking capillaries I have added in this formulation ESCIN!
ESCIN is a very good ingredient. Here are a few data on this ingredient:
- It is water soluble,
- It shouldn’t be heated (therefore in our recipes, if we are using emulsifiers which need to be heated, we add it in the Phase C)
- It can be added up to 2% of a formulation.
The main properties of Escin:
- Vasoprotector
- Vasocostrictor 
- Anty-Inflamatory
The bad thing about Escin is that it doesn’t smell good: it is not that bad, but it gives to the cream a “dusty” feeling. It can seem totally bearable in the beginning but it can irritate you after weeks of applying the cream :D

Another “Prince” Active-Ingredient of this recipe is, obviously, Caffeine (I have already written a post about Caffeine, you can read it HERE).
Caffeine helps mostly against puffiness because it improves the blood circulation (therefore helping the exceeding water to move out of the area).

[If this is the first post you read and you feel confused about formulation, I suggest you to first read the theory of making your cosmetic creams at home :) You can find the list of all the theoric posts and all the recipes HERE.
If you are confused on where to purchase these ingredients, I wrote a post about buying cosmetic ingredients online and I wrote a list of the most known, at least to me, websites for purchasing these ingredients online HERE]

Enough talking now! :)

RECIPE:

Phase A:
Water to 100 (as always my recipe are for 100 gr. I give you the recipe and I don’t calculate the water for you: this way if you have to omit some ingredients you can freely do it still without compromising the percentages of the other ingredients in the recipe: to calculate the amount of water needed you simply measure in grams all the other ingredients and do 100-(grams of all the other ingredients))
Betaine 5 
(this is NOT the surfactant called “cocamidopropyl betaine” but this is the Trimethylglycine – this ingredient helps making the cream more soothing and more smooth at the touch. If you don’t have it, you can omit it)
Glycerin 2
Caffeine 1
Escin 1.5
Hyaluronic Acid Gel
(My recipe HERE) 3

Phase B:
Murumuru butter 2 (you can substitute this butter with any other butter of your choice. I picked this one because it has low oleic acid compared to other butters but it is not an essential ingredient)
Cocoa butter 2 
(I used unrefined cocoa butter, refined is obviously fine as well and, if you want, you can substitute this ingredient with other butters of your choice)
Tocopherol 1 (this is Vitamin E)
Black Currant oil 2 (this oil composition is rich in linoleic acid which is very good for the skin – if you don’t have it, you can substitute with another oil high in linoleic acid)
Abil Care 85 – 2 **[INCI: Bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG16/16 Dimethicone; Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride]
Tinovis ADE – 1.2 **[INCI: Sodium Acrylates Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated Polydecene (and) PPG-1 Trideceth-6]

Phase C: 
Blueberry Powder Extract 0.4
Preservative (at the right concentration needed by your specific preservative)

Extra: add a few drops of an allergen-free Fragrance Oil (I don’t suggest adding Essential Oils because they are full of allergens and many are quite aggressive.)

** About this EMULSIFYING SYSTEM: Abil Care 85 is a silicon based emulsifier which can be used at room temperature and higher temperatures. It is silicon based and therefore it is not extremely eco-friendly. Tinovis ADE is a thickener which can be used without gelling the Phase A and must be used at room temperatures. Abil Care 85 and Tinovis ADE are a good combination for making creams with a good texture and in a fast way (since you don’t need to heat them to use them). I don’t like silicons on my skin but this is not a cream based on silicons, the amount of silicon in a cream emulsified with 2% Abil Care is much lower than 2% and that is totally acceptable by my skin.
However, if you don’t want to buy these two emulsifiers (let’s say you want to avoid silicons completely) then you can obviously use a different Emulsifying system. Just consider that you will have to add a gelling agent in Phase A, you will have to create a larger Phase C (with Escin, hyaluronic acid gel, black currant oil) and you will need to heat up the Phase A and Phase B at the needed temperature for your emulsifying system.
If you have doubts, read the theory HERE and check other recipes HERE.

Now finally the HOW TO:
1) Measure and add in a becher the water (you have previously calculated the right amount of water ;) ) and the Glycerin.

2) Add Caffeine
Escin and Caffeine Eye Cream2

3) You can see that the caffeine doesn’t “melt” inside the water easily
Escin and Caffeine Eye Cream3 Escin and Caffeine Eye Cream4

4) Heat up the water with caffeine just a little, until it becomes all transparent again.
Escin and Caffeine Eye Cream5

5) When the water is not warm anymore, add Escin
Escin and Caffeine Eye Cream6

6) Eventually add Hyaluronic acid gel and betaine (it should look like the picture below: it is not transparent because of the escin, what is important is that there are no residues left on the bottom because it would mean that it is not “melted” in the water). Set aside.
Escin and Caffeine Eye Cream9

7) Measure the Murumuru butter and the Cocoa butter, then heat it up until they are melted
Escin and Caffeine Eye Cream7

8) Add the remaining ingredients of the Phase B and add them to the Phase A
Escin and Caffeine Eye Cream8

9) This is how bad it looks when you pour the Phase B into the Phase A
Escin and Caffeine Eye Cream10

10) Mix with your immersion mixer
Escin and Caffeine Eye Cream11

11) Aside measure the Blueberry Powder Extract and the Preservative. Add a little bit of cream and mix in order to start “melting” the blueberry powder.
Escin and Caffeine Eye Cream12

12) Add the Phase C to the cream.
Escin and Caffeine Eye Cream13

This is it! :)

Escin and Caffeine Eye Cream14

I hope you enjoyed this recipe: I love it :D

Have a great day! :D

Any suggestion about a recipe you would like me to formulate? :)

 

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Lactobionic Acid Cream DIY

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Hello there!
I did promise you I would have posted a recipe of a new face cream and here it is ;)

Lactobionic Cream 10

[If this is the first post you read of this blog… you might want to check the Index of the website first :D there are many posts about how to make REAL creams at home. Learn a little bit of theory and this page will start making sense too :D GO HERE you won't be sorry! ]

This cream has a quite consistent oil phase (or Phase B) because I needed it for winter, however (after one month of trial) I don’t think it is enough greasy for people with dry skin or who live in very cold countries (I find myself in Finland at the moment and at -20°C my skin was still dry :D ).
For this cream I tried to formulate a different grease-fall compared to what I usually make because, even though I have a quite oily skin, I have found out that low-density oils appear on my skin much more easily than more heavy ones (that’s because usually the lower the density of an oil, the higher the spreading ability). So that’s it, I tried adding more butters than I normally do and I must say my skin liked it, even though I am still not totally satisfied with the feel of this cream and I will definitely have to experiment much more before I find the “perfect grease-fall” (for winter :D cause for spring, rainy days, summer… blablabla that will be a total different story :D ).

AH YES! :D
The active ingredients :D
In this cream there are quite a bunch :D but the PRINCE ingredient here is LACTOBIONIC ACID! This acid is a strong antioxidant (it should therefore have also a good action again light pigmentation of the skin, so to say: if you have little brown spots “after pimple”), it has good hydrating properties and, being a (mild) acid it also helps the exfoliation of skin and therefore its renewal :D
It can be used from 2% up to 15% and it is usually used in substitution of other stronger acids (let’s say, for instance, glicolic acid) because it is not as strong and therefore it is more suitable for sensible skins.
Instead of leaving this Lactobionic Acid alone, however, I paired it with another good active ingredient: GLUCONOLACTONE! Also this one is a mild acid and doesn’t become aggressive once on the skin. Lactobionic acid and gluconolactone together, help fighting pigmentation of the skin caused by oxidation.

Because this acid would make the cream have a too low pH for the carbomer (carbopol ultrez 21) to work, I decided to simply omit it and rise the % of Xanthan gum up to 0.2%.

Now, TO THE RECIPE! :D

Phase A:
Water to 100

Glycerin 1.5 
Xanthan gum (non transparent grade) 0.2
Lactobionic Acid 3 
Trimetilglicine 3 (it has soothing properties, you can omit it if you don’t have it)

Phase B:
Cetiol Sensoft 3
Tocopherol (Vitamin E) 1
Murumuru butter 2
Kokum butter 2
Jojoba oil 1
Metil glucose sesquistearate 3
Cetyl alcohol 1
cetyl palmitate 0.5

Phase C (oily): 
Safflower oil 3
Dry flo 0.5
Aperoxid 3 drops

Phase C (hydro): 
Gluconolactone acid 2 
Water 10
(caustic soda solution 20% to bring pH up to 4.5)

Sodium Lactate 3 (helps hydration of the skin, you can omit it)
Cosgard 0.6 (or any other preservative used at the concentration needed for 100 grams)

HOW TO:
1) Measure the Phase A and warm it up to 70°C (for the record: you add glycerin, you add xanthan gum to it, you mix and then add the water where you have already poured lactobionic acid and trimetilglicine little by little)
Lactobionic Cream 2
It will form a light gel.

2) Measure the Phase B and warm it up in a double boiler (notice my extra professional double boiler system :D ) up to 70°C.
Lactobionic Cream 1
3) Once both the Phases have reached 70°C pour the Phase B into Phase A and mix with an immersion mixer like we have always done with any other cream
Lactobionic Cream 3
It will be very liquid and it is fine.
DON’T PANIC and keep stirring it until it cools down to room temperature (might take 30 min).

4) Add the Phase C (oily)
Lactobionic Cream 4

5) Make the Phase C (hydro) checking that the pH is not lower than 4.5
Lactobionic Cream 5

6) Add it to the cream, add also the preservative and the sodium lactate (you can also add few drops of cosmetic grade fragrance oil or essential oil) and use the immersion mixer again, then check the pH (it should be 4.5, if it is not… adjust it so it becomes 4.5 :D )
Lactobionic Cream 6

7) Keep it in the container for a couple of days, mixing it every now and then (of course cover the becher with some plastic wrap paper so nothing will fall inside, specially not dust :D ), this is because the cream will thicken up in a few days.
Lactobionic Cream 7

ENJOY!!! :D :D :D

Lactobionic Cream 9

Comment on the cream:
I like this cream a lot but the consistency is more liquid than I expected and I would like to find another gelling agent which will resist acid pH (Xanthan gum is not the best: it gives a weird finish to the cream :D ). I will also have to improve the grease-fall, probably increasing even more the butters and lowering the cetiol sensoft :D

Let me know what you think and if you try making it and if you have any idea on how to improve it! :D

Cheers!
UPDATE!
I am IN LOVE with this cream!!! I have been using it for months now and I truly truly truly love it! :) 
It is hydrating, it doesn’t make my skin oily, it makes my skin glow… I made so much (I think I made 500 gr of cream :D ) that I have been using it also as a mask and I adore it! :) 
Let me know if you try making it! 

 

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Babassu Body Cream – Recipe

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Hello there! :D

I did make the new face cream of which I was talking about in the last post but I will post that recipe a little later: I want to test it first and be able to give you the review also :D

[IF YOU ARE NEW to my blog, you might want to check the theory of how to make "as close as professional" creams at home :D you can do it HERE at the site index! And don't be scared thinking "I cannot do it", "it is too complicated" because everything looks complicated before you learn it :D so grit your teeth for a while and enjoy later ;) On the same page there is also a link to my post where I show you where you can buy cosmetic ingredients online! :D ]

The recipe of today will be of a BODY CREAM, made with a new (to this blog) emulsifier! :D
Usually in body creams there is not too much need for active ingredients (or this, however, is my opinion) because it is already good enough if we have the consistency of applying the cream everyday ;) however I choose to add in this cream precious fats like the Babassu oil and Shea Butter.

Are you ready for the recipe??? :D

Babassu Body Cream
(…and who would have ever thought I could take such a picture! :D I could ALMOST look like an amateur photographer! :D )

RECIPE: 
Phase A: 
Water to 100 (all my recipes are written for 100 gr therefore this “water to 100″ means that you calculate the water at the end, in order to complete 100 gr of product. Why wouldn’t I simply write the amount directly? Because 99% of the time you won’t have the same ingredients as I do. Maybe you are missing one ingredient or you want to add one extra or you want to use an emulsifier which I don’t have or you have a preservative which has to be used at a different concentration than the one I am using… so once you have made your substitutions and have realized how much “everything else” you are adding… you can calculate how much water you need to use to reach 100% ;) )
Glycerin – 5 
Xanthan Gum (non transparent kind) – 0.2 – you can use transparent kind if you have that one.
Carbopol Utrez 21 – 0.4 

Phase B: 
Methil Glucose Distearate – 3.5 (this is the new emulsifier I am using in this cream. The feel is slightly lighter than the methyl glucose sesquistearate so I am thinking I will try this emulsifier for face creams as well. The percentage of use is slightly higher than MGS so 3.5 to 4% will do)
Cetyl Alcohol – 0.8 
Cetyl Palmitate – 0.7 
Shea Butter – 6 
Babassu Oil – 8 
Rose hip Oil – 3 (if you have other oils you can substitute these with what you have as long as you bear in mind the density of the oils I am using: to substitute properly you should use oils with similar density) ;)
Dicaprylyl Ether – 3 (light synthetic oil which will help having a dry feel in the cream)

Phase C: 
Hydrolized Oat Proteins – 3 (you can substitute this with any hydrolyzed proteins like for example silk, grains, milk…)
Allantoin – 0.4 (I like allantoin and I add it in close to any cream I make: it has soothing properties, it is not expensive and it has to be used at a very small percentage or it doesn’t disperse properly in the cream. It used to be difficult to disperse it before… until I found out that it “melts” in hydrolyzed proteins… this is why I always associate allantoin and hydrolyzed proteins together! ;) However if you don’t have it do not despair: it is not necessary!)
Preservative (at the percentage which the specific preservative which you are using requires)
Fragrance Oil – few drops

Straight to the HOW TO! 

1) You measure glycerin and xanthan gum:
Xanthan Gum Glycerin
here it was not mixed yet.
You mix it and add a little amount of water to it (let’s say 10 gr).

2) You measure the Carbopol Utrez 21 and set it aside.
You measure the remaining water in a big becher (you just used 10 gr in the previous step, so you have to consider it ;) )
You pour the Carbopol on top of the water and let it rest WITHOUT MIXING.
Water and Carbopol Utrez 21
as you can see the powder seems to sit on top of the water.
It will hydrate slowly and if you try to mix with a spatula to make it faster… the Carbomer will actually stick to your spatula without hydrating. So let it be for a while and you will see that it will change and become like this:
Water and Carbomer after 5 min
If you look closely you can see that it is not yet a gel but it is still water with inside little whitish pieces: that’s how it is supposed to look like (just remember that Carbopol Utrez 21 becomes gel at pH 5 precisely).

3) Measure the Phase B and heat it up together with the water and carbopol (don’t worry: we will add the xanthan gel very soon)
Phase A and Phase B

4) Measure the temperature. When they both reach approx 70°C, add the xanthan gel to the water:
xanthan gel and carbopol gel

5) After having checked the temperature (do not skip this!!! :D I know it is very tempting to think that “it looks hot enough” but the thing is that if your temperature is too low, the cream won’t emulsify well enough and after a few days the oils will start coming on the surface of the cream, so why to risk ;) ) take them off from fire and pour the Phase B into the Phase A.
You should pour it little by little while stirring or (even better) already mixing with the immersion mixer.
In order to take the picture I had to stop stirring for a moment… but YOU DON’T DO THAT!!! :D :D :D
Phase B in Phase A
This is the most critical part so pay attention!

6) Now it’s time for the immersion mixer! :D
You will see that it will immediately become white but it will still be very liquid compared to the cream you were dreaming about:
Mix
But do not despair :D just keep mixing with the immersion mixer until everything looks well emulsified: the cream will start thickening up once it cools down and not before! ;)
I will teach you a little trick on finding out wether your cream is well emulsified or not :) maybe I will make a post about it :)

7) Now that it looks well emulsified IT IS NOT FINISHED! In fact if you let it rest when it is still hot… it will probably separate again! In order to keep emulsified you will have to stir the cream until it is cooled down. This might take 30 minutes but you can always place the becher in cold water so it will cool down faster (I do that all the time :D ).
Keep Stirring
As you can see it already looks a little bit thick… but that’s nothing yet! :D

8) Measure and add the Phase C:
Phase C

9) Stir gently again until the Phase C is homogeneously melted in the cream. Check the pH and adjust it to 5.5 (mine was already 5.5).
Tadaaa

NOW… if the cream is really cooled down you COULD pour it in a jar.
I don’t suggest you to do so: the Cetyl alcohol and the Cetyl palmitate (the thickening agents) will keep thickening your cream for the next hours and actually for the next couple of days.
When making a cream containing these two ingredients I always prefere to leave the cream in the becher for a couple of days (obviously covered with plastic wrap and kept in a safe place) so that I can stir it every now and then: in fact if you pour it in the jar immediately after you make it, the cream will end up looking a little weird :D (I don’t know how to explain this any better… you will know it if you do it :D ).

If you wait, instead, it will look this cool: soft and smooth :D :D :D
Body cream itsallinmyhands

Hope you enjoyed it! :D
Let me know if you try making it or if you have any question! :D
Have a great day!!!

 

 

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Silky Body Cream

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Hello there!
I am back with a new extra fast recipe for a silky silky body cream!!! :D

Silkybodycream

[WAIT! If this is the first post of my blog you read… you might want to check the index of the blog so you can learn the basics ;) just follow THIS LINK and you will find all you need to know about how to formulate real cosmetics at home, where to buy ingredients and how to make them!]

The key ingredient of this recipe is Sodium Polyacrilate! (Wikipedia says: “also known as waterlock, is a sodium salt of polyacrylic acid with the chemical formula [-CH2-CH(COONa)-]n and broad application in consumer products. It has the ability to absorb as much as 200 to 300 times its mass in water.”)
IT IS ALMOST LIKE MAGIC!!! :D
If you have ever made creams before, using thickening agents and emulsifiers which needed to be heated up to 70°C… you can forget about all the mess made by double boilers and having to check the temperature because nothing of this is needed!!! YAY :D
This wonderful powder, at just 1%, is an amazing thickening agent and it emulsifies between 10% to 20% fats just by using a SPOON! It doesn’t need heating, it doesn’t need tricky mixing with an immersion mixer… just a spoon! It creates a cream with a light and silky feel…
I couldn’t believe it but… when I finally tried it, eventually I had to! :D

The bad side about Sodium Polyacrilate is that it does not work fine with certain ingredients – mostly salts –  like, for example, urea and sodium hyaluronate. So… bear this in mind if you want to make a recipe of your own and not follow mine! ;)
Also, I think (but this is my opinion and nothing stops you to use it otherwise) it is best for body creams rather than face creams: first of all for the fact that it needs a minimum of 10% fats and secondly because the silky feel on the skin of the face is a bit “too much” IMO. :D

Now… ENOUGH: to the recipe!!!

RECIPE: (for 100gr of product. In the pictures I made much more than 100gr).

Phase A
Water to 100 (it means that, before you proceed, you calculate 100(gr) minus the total quantity of the other ingredients; therefore if you are missing some ingredient or are going to add or change another… your final recipe will be for 100%. This is important in order to make a balanced and correct recipe)
Sodium Polyacrilate 1.5 
Glicerin 5
Hydrolized Silk Proteins 2

Phase B 
Safflower oil 5 
Jojoba oil 5 
Sweet almond oil 5 
Dry flo 1 (this is a powder of a modified starch which will help the cream to not feel greasy even though it contains 15% of fats ;) )

D-Panthenol 2 
Fragrance oil (few drops of your favorite fragrance oil – cosmetic grade)
Preservative (the quantity depends on the specific cosmetic preservative you own. For this recipe you can use either water soluble or oil soluble with no problems. In my case it needed to be used at 0.6%)

Now to the EXTRA SIMPLE HOW TO:

1) Add glycerin, silk proteins and water; eventually pour Sodium Polyacrilate on top of Phase A:
DSCN0223

2) Start mixing with a spatula.
Don’t freak out immediately because it is initially going to look like this:
DSCN0224
TRULY TRULY DON’T DESPAIR!!! :D It is fine…

3) Keep stirring for approx one minute and TADAAA :D
DSCN0225
It will start to look more like an homogeneous gel.
Here it is still not good enough… but it gives the idea of how silky it becomes in just a little stirring ;) )

4) Add the Phase B
DSCN0226

5) And now stir!!!
DSCN0227
6) Eventually add the few left ingredients (preservative, fragrance oil and D-Panthenol) and keep stirring again! :D
As you can see from the picture above it will already be a nice cream with a bit of translucent feel…
But here is the result after I very briefly decided to use the immersion mixer:

DSCN0228

And this all in a matter of 10 minutes :D
I couldn’t believe it!!! :D

DSCN0230

Hope you liked this recipe!!! ;)
Let me know in the comments!
And let me know if you have any question in case you want to build a recipe of your own! Would be glad to help ;)

 

 

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Autumn Dream – Face Cream

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Autumn Cream 13

 

I don’t even know how I came up with such a cheesy name for this cream, but let me admit that I ALMOST feel like a poet! :D (well ok, I might be joking here… ;) )

I had promised that I would have finally posted the recipe and the “how to – pictures” of the autumn cream I am using right now… so here it is! :D
It is my “autumn” cream because it has a bit higher % of fats compared to the cream I make for summer, and also because, since I have utterly sensitive skin which happily gets all red and paining with the first colds, I have added a lot of active ingredients with soothing properties! :D
Since my “perfect fat % for autumn cream” is indeed a very personal thing, I will add in the recipe few modifications you can do in case you have normal or dry skin! (after all, lotion making is all about being able to make what suits ourselves best! ;) ).

IMPORTANT: If you are new to the world of (let’s say “serious”) DIY Lotion Making… well, this post might make you feel little bit confused! But DO NOT DESPAIR for I have gone through each and every step in my previous posts! :D
On top of the page you can reach the Index of the blog or you can start HERE by reading the first part of  the theory of lotion making :D

If, instead, you already know what’s behind and you want to know where to buy the cosmetic ingredients (cause most of the ingredients in this recipe cannot be found in a normal shop and often not even at the chemist… or well, if you find them there, they might charge you a lot more money than online) HERE you can find a list of websites that sell them online!

All done?
Good!
Now we are ready to go! :D

This is the RECIPE:

Phase A
Water to 100 (this means we calculate the amount of water at the end of the recipe by doing: 100 – “the sum of the amount (in grams) of all the other ingredients”. What’s left is the amount of water we need to add to our recipe to reach 100 gr. I don’t write the final amount cause it might confuse people: in fact if you don’t have one ingredient which I am using, you can omit it and re-calculate the amount of water needed to reach 100gr… or, in case you have a preservative which needs to be added at a different %, you will be able to change the amount of water accordingly) hope it was clear! :D
Glycerin 3
Xanthan Gum 0.2 (I realized my carbopol utrez 21 had expired so I could only use the xanthan gum. If, however, you do own that carbomer, you could add 0.3 of it and lower xanthan gum to 0.15 or 0.1. With only xanthan gum the cream comes out anyway but it has a better touch if it contains carbomer) ;)

Phase B 
Murumuru butter 0.5 (Normal skin: 1.5, Dry skin: 2.5)
Safflower oil 0.5 (Normal skin 1.5, Dry skin 2.5)
Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate 3 (this is the emulsifier. If you don’t have this one but have another one, you can substitute it freely. However remember that the procedure to make this face cream may change if you change the emulsifier so it’s important you know how to use the one you have :D )
Cetyl palmitate 1 (this is a thickening agent and in this amount won’t make the cream very thick but it will be a soft cream. If you like thick thick cream that won’t move around that easily in a pot… you might want to use cetyl palmitate at 2% or you might keep it at 1% and add another thickening agent like cetyl alcohol at 1%)
Tocopherol 0.5 (this is vitamin E, if you like you can add up to 1)
Propylheptyl Caprylate 1.5 (this is a very light synthetic oil which doesn’t have other property than making the cream feel very light too. Normal skin 2, Dry skin 3)

Oily Phase C: 
Bisabolol 0.5 (this is a soothing active ingredient. It is quite expensive but it is worth it :D )
Black Currant Oil 1 (this is a medium natural oil which is said to have good properties against rosacea and, in general, it is good for the capillary… good to have it in a cream in winter time when the capillary go through a lot of stress! Normal skin: 1.5, Dry skin: 2)
Dry Flo 0.5 (this is actually the commercial name of an hydrophobically modified corn starch: it helps to not get a shiny face after applying the cream: good if you have bit oily skin – you can add up to 1%-, but I like to add it also for any other kind of face cream because it gives a better finish ;) my opinion).

Water Soluble Phase C: 
Hydrolized Silk Proteins 2 (if you have any other hydrolized protein, like milk, oat… it should do just fine :D )
Allantoin 0.4 (usually I mix these two together first because Allantoin disperses very well in hydrolized proteins for me! :D )
Water 5 (this is just normal water which I add to better “melt” the next dry ingredients. Of course it has to be included in the final calculation to know how much water to add in the Phase A without exceeding 100 gr)
Dry Extract of Vitis Vinifera 0.2 (it’s a powder and it has good properties, once again, for capillaries. You can find it in creams for rosacea skin or for leg circulation! Very good! :D )
Dry extract of Raspberry 0.1 (also this one is a powder. If you don’t have it you can omit it)
Dry extract of licorice 0.2 (of course a powder as well :D this one contained 20% of Glycyrrhizic Acid, which has very good soothing properties!)
*The only bad thing about adding dry extracts from plants is that usually they don’t have exactly a white color (you will see in the pictures :D ) and therefore they change the color to your cream :D, also, they might have some kind of smell! You might as well purchase directly pure active ingredients like, for example, glycyrrhizic acid… but in this case it is a difficult ingredient to work with. Plus I like colored creams :D so this is my choice :D *
Hyaluronic Acid Gel (which we made HERE) 5

Preservative (mine goes at 0.6, but depending on the one you have you will have to add it at its own requested %)
pH 5.5

Well done!
If you made it till here… here we go with the HOW TO! :D

NOTICE I made this cream not for 100 gr but for 1 Kg… so don’t get confused if you see a big amount of ingredients :D (it is not easy to make only 100 gr of cream because it is very difficult to mix it properly when it comes to putting together Phase A and B, I suggest you make at least 300 grams to have a better result :D)

Phase A:
- measure glycerin and xanthan gum (if you are also using the carbopol utrez 21, follow the instructions HERE)
Autumn Cream 1
- measure water and add it little by little stirring with a spatula :D
Autumn Cream 2
Set aside.

Phase B: 
- measure all ingredients and put them together.
Autumn Cream 3
(yes it is not very visible but here you are supposed to see all the ingredients of phase B :D)

- put both Phase A and Phase B on fire to make them reach 70°C. In the meanwhile let’s measure the two Phase C! :D

- Oily Phase C:
Autumn Crem 4

- Water soluble Phase C:
Autumn Cream 5
(as you can see… not exactly white color extracts! :D eheheh :D)

Now back to our Phase A and B, which got heated up to 70°C :D
Autumn Cream 6
This is heated Phase A (it is not very visible but I wanted to show you that it is a gel)

- Pour, little by little, Phase B into Phase A (I was alone so I couldn’t take picture of this cause with one hand i was adding Phase B and with the other I was mixing with a spatula! :D)

- Mix with the immersion mixer paying attention that you don’t add any air into the cream!
It will immediately change color into very white :D
Like here:
Autumn Cream 7

- once you believe that you mixed enough, start mixing with a spatula and keep stirring until it gets to room temperature!
This seems silly but it is very very important: at this point of time the oils and the water might still separate so if you keep stirring you actually help them keep together :D once they have cooled down they are more likely to not separate! Là! :D
As you can see from the picture (probably) the “cream” is actually still very liquid! This is because the picture was taken when the mixture was still very hot. The thickening of cetyl palmitate will occur only once the cream has fully cooled down (and it actually continues after a couple of days) so don’t despair at all: at this point it is not supposed to be thick… yet! ;)
Autumn Cream 8

- Once it reached room temperature you can finally add the two Phase C!
Autumn Cream 9

- Stir with spatula:
Autumn Cream 10

- Add preservative

- Use immersion mixer one last time just to make things more smooth ;)

- Check pH and adjust it to 5.5 pH (using an acid like, for example, lactic acid.. but in my case I didn’t need to adjust it because it was already 5.5)

And… TADAAAAA :D
Autumn Cream 11

Now apply and enjoy… ;)
 

 

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Pink Sugar Frosting Body Lotion (Recipe)

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Hello everybody! :D

Today I am going to share with you a recipe for a body cream.

DSCF3571

[If you are new to the making of lotions at home... you might want to run here! :D
If you already know the basics but miss the ingredients you might want to read the post about where to buy cosmetic ingredients online (here!) :D ]

I made this cream for a good friend who just requested a good body cream for dry skin.
My intention was to get a very emollient cream (which often means “an important and well studied oily phase”) with few active ingredients to do good to the skin (we don’t want to use active ingredients only on our face: we can afford to use some also on the rest of our body ;) ).

How I proceeded:
Picking the oils: being a body cream I wasn’t too concerned about using comedogenic oils or butters. This is why I used a 5% of Shea Butter (which, whatever you read online, is comedogenic due to its fatty acid composition… In case, you can read more about it here) without thinking twice. Shea butter is heaven for the skin of our body. As medium density oil I added Borage oil and Safflower oil, but the main part of my “Grease-Fall” was made of light and extra light oils (to be really honest Jojoba oil is a wax and the other two were synthetic oils which have the very good property of improving the feel of the cream on the skin. If you want to use only natural oils I will add options at the end of the post on how to change the recipe :D ).

Picking the emulsifier: I know nowadays there is this huge fuss against silicones and I can understand why, to some extent: I have found out that the skin of my face doesn’t appreciate silicones :D, I am not saying that everybody shouldn’t apply silicones creams to their face, I am just saying what my skin doesn’t like it: if I apply a cream or foundation containing silicones (even in very low percentage)… the morning after I am 1000% sure I will have extremely small pimples all over my face.
This is why, however cool the silicone based emulsifier is, I never emulsify a face-cream with it.
Luckily this is not the case for my body-skin so I do use it in body lotions and totally enjoy it! :D
This is why you find a silicone based emulsifier in this recipe: it doesn’t need to be heated (no double boiler needed yeheee!), it has a very very low chance to fail (which means the cream won’t separate into oily phase and water phased easily, on the contrary…) and it gives a very smooth, velvety feel to the cream.
[However, if you wish to use another emulsifier, of course you can. Read the end of the post for details about substitution].

Picking the Active Ingredients: since it is not a face-cream, it won’t be packed in active ingredients; however we do want to give our body skin some good ingredients! For this cream I have picked Panthenol (also called Vitamin B5), Allantoin, Oat hydrolized proteins, Tocopherol (Vitamin E) and I also added some of the hyaluronic acid gel which you can make following the instructions here. :D
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient. I love it but it might be difficult to disperse it: I found, however, that mixing it with hydrolized proteins helps to dissolve it very fast so whenever I use Allantoin I also add some kind of hydrolized proteins and that does the trick! :D

Now it is time for THE RECIPE :D
(notice that dividing Phase A, B and C is not necessary and you could add all the ingredients to Phase A and B according to their solubility… however I am used to do so and so I will keep the phases separated also in case you will intend to change emulsifier!)

Phase A: 
Water to 100 
Glycerin 5 
Carbopol Utrez 21 0.1 (you can omit this gelling agent because we are going to use a fat-soluble gelling agent)

Phase B: 
Abil Care 85 – 2 (Inci name: Bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG-16/16 Dimethicone; Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) As you can see from the Inci name, this is the silicon based emulsifier. You can substitute this emulsifier with any other emulsifier you have, what you have to keep in mind, however, is that the “How to” will also change: you will have to use the amount needed of the emulsifier you have (it might be 3% or 5% or whatever) and you might have to heat up Phase A and Phase B up to 70°C therefore, if you intend to change emulsifier, change also everything else accordingly! :D
Tinovis ADE – 1.5 (Inci name:  Sodium Acrylates Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated Polydecene (and) PPG-1 Trideceth-6) This is out gelling agent. The combination of Abil Care 85 and Tinovis ADE gives a good silky cream. However, once again, you might want to use xanthan gum if that’s what you have: in this case use xanthan gum at 0.4% and of course use it in the Phase A. In case you have Tinovis and not Abil Care, notice that Tinovis does not bear heat so, if you are using an emulsifier which needs to be heated up… add Tinovis to the Phase C and not before! :D
Shea butter – 5
Safflower oil – 3 
Borage oil – 3 
Jojoba oil – 5 
Dycaprylyl Ether – 5 (this is a very light synthetic oil which helps giving a light touch to the cream. If you don’t have it or you don’t intend to use synthetic oils in your creams, you can substitute it by increasing the amount of Jojoba oil: the result won’t be same but it will be as close as it can get!)
Cetiol Sensoft – 5 (Inci name: Propylheptyl Caprylate) (this is another very light synthetic oil. I think it is one of the lightest of all. The other good quality of this product is that it gives a silicon-like feel to the cream even if it is not a silicon. However, if you don’t have it or don’t intend to use this, you can still increase the percentage of the jojoba oil)
Tocopherol 1
Phase C: 
Allantoin 0.35
Oat Hydrolized Proteins 1.65 (mix the Allantoin and the Proteins very well together)
Panthenol (water soluble 75% solution) 1
Preservative (at the amount required from the one you are specifically using)
Fragrance Oil – few drops  - I added Pink Sugar from Gracefruit  :D

ENJOY!!! :D

DSCF3570

 

 

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Sebum Normalizer cream Recipe

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DSCF3535

This is a cream made specifically for oily skin and for spring days! :D
There are two important active ingredients in this cream which will perform the function of oil-controllers:
- Azelaic Acid 
- Tiolisine 

The Azelaic Acid however is insoluble in water or oil therefore it is very difficult for us to use it in our home production (you can find it in online shops of raw materials but I don’t know how it could be used since it is impossible to melt it or dissolve it properly in any liquid)… this is why in this recipe I have used a derivative of Azelaic Acid called Azeloglicine (it contains approx 30% of Azelaic Acid in a hydrophilic form! Bingo! :D).
Azelaic Acid is mainly used for its oil-control properties but it is also used to treat acne (both comedonal and inflammatory) because it kills the bacteria which cause acne and it also decreases the production of keratin which is a substance that promotes the growth of bacteria.
Tiolisine is a sulfurated aminoacid derivative which also has sebum-normalizing properties and it is usually used between 2-4% (3-5% in detergents like shampoo for dandruff).

The recipe I have made for this cream is as simple as possible.
Now I write the recipe and then I explain some more things:

RECIPE: [in case you are new to the making of creams, HERE you can learn what I am talking about ;)]
PHASE A:
water to 100
xanthan gum 0.11 (possibly not the transparent kind: for gels the transparent xanthan gum is good, for creams the other is better)
carbopol utrez 21 0.3
glycerin 2.5

PHASE B:
Methyl glucose sesquistearate 2 (I use this low percentage because the oils in this cream are very low)
Cetyl Alcohol 0.8
Cetiol sensoft 1.5
Evening Primrose Oil 1
Hemp oil 0.5
Tocopherol 1

PHASE C 1 : 
Bisabolol 0.5
Dry Flo (INCI aluminum starch octenyl succinate) 0.7

PHASE C 2 :
Azeloglicine 6
Tiolisine Complex 2.5

Preservative 0.6 (or according to the right percentage of use of your own preservative).

Adjust the pH at 5.5 – 6
The oil percentage is so low it could be considered an oil-free cream.
The consistency of the cream is rather fluid: I always have the feeling that thick creams are more suitable for dry skins (at least this is the feeling I get: if a cream is thick, I unconsciously associate it with the idea of a “too rich” cream for an oily skin), while fluid lotions give me better the idea of something light. So this is all up to you (if you want a thick cream you can rise the cetyl alcohol up to 1.5%… but since this is like a wax on our skin, I don’t recommend it :D).
Cetiol Sensoft is a very light synthetic oil which gives a smooth touch to the cream. If you want to avoid using synthetic oils and you wish to use only natural oils, you could substitute this ingredient with the same amount of jojoba oil (which is a bit more dense but it is the lightest natural “oil”).

Hope this was helpful to those of you who have trouble with oily skin!
Let me know if it worked for you ;)

HAVE A GREAT DAY! :D

Hair Conditioner Recipe (and THEORY)

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Hair Conditioner Recipe

 

Hello :D
Today I would like to show you a basic recipe for a good Hair Conditioner :)
The formulation for a lotion and an hair conditioner are similar but not same: there are some basic differences that, if not followed, might make you fail.

So!
There is still a Phase A and a Phase B BUT! while in the making of a lotion you add the heated Phase B to the heated Phase A… here you MUST do the opposite!
You must pour the Phase A into the Phase B. This is very important!

The second difference is that there is not a proper Phase C because every extra ingredient (which should be added when the Phase A and B are already emulsified and at room temperature) has to be added singularly… ONE BY ONE! :)

Apart from these two big differences, however, everything else is quite same! :)

Phase A:
Water to 100
Glycerin 3
Guar Hydroxypropultrimonium Chloride 0.1 (this is a very good ingredient in a hair conditioner or even in a shampoo, but don’t use it at higher concentration than 0.1-0.15% – However if you don’t have it, you can use instead a water where you had infused Mallow or Flax Seeds)
Heat this phase up to 75° (absolutely check the termometer!)

Phase B:
Esterquat 8 (this is a CATIONIC emulsifier, therefore it is different from the emulsifiers which we have in our lotions. It is important that you use an emulsifier specifically for hair conditioning :) this substance in the specific is very good because it is eco-friendly ;) )
Jojoba oil 2
cetyl alcohol 3.5
stearic acid 1.5
Heat this phase up to 70°

“Phase C” (but remember you have to add them one by one and in this order)
Hydrolized wheat protein 3
Panthenol 1
Poliquaternium-7 2 (this enhances the conditioning ability. If you don’t have it you can skip it)
Preservative 0.5-0.6 (or whichever concentration the preservative you are using needs to be!)
Fragrance oil or Essential oil depending on your taste :D

DSCF3512

Have a great day!!! :D

 

 

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How to make a lotion: EMULSIFIERS pt.2 – THEORY

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In the previous post about emulsifiers we talked about their HLB which, at the end of the day, only tells us wether an emulsifier is more lipophilic or more hydrophilic.
What we, more importantly, need to know about our emulsifier is
- how to use it (hot or cold process)
- and at which percentage.

This is not same for every emulsifier. Even with the same HLB, the ability of an emulsifier can be totally different (and therefore we might need to add to our cream more or less of it).

These information we can collect easily in the moment we purchase our emulsifier: who sells them know the percentage of use and usually posts it on the page of the product (if it is not written there, you could always send them an e-mail and ask for more details about their product. If they don’t know or don’t reply… well, change supplier and buy from a well informed one :D ).

However I have decided to put together a small guideline about emulsifiers.

The biggest difference is wether the emulsifier has to be used in hot process or cold process.
An emulsifier which needs to be heated up to 70° is usually solid, normally sold in pearls and his ability to emulsify is only at 70°C. If the two phases we are trying to emulsify do not reach this temperature… well, the emulsion will separate soon enough. So bear in mind to properly check the temperature of your two phases before you mix them (you don’t want to waste precious ingredients nor time, do you? :D ).
Since the highest number of emulsifiers work at 70°C, you have to simply follow the process which I already explained in the beginning: you heat up the two phases, you pour the phase B into the phase A and mix with an immersion mixer, once it looks emulsified very well you keep stirring with a spatula until the lotion cools down completely and eventually add your phase C.
There is an huge number of these emulsifiers.

Always remember that these emulsifiers can be more lipophilic or more hydrophilic… or can even be self-emulsifying (which means they already contain both lipophilic and hydrophilic emulsifiers) so always check their composition to find out if they need a co-emulsifier or not (you can, once again, find this specific information from the website where you order your supplies!).
Just to make an example of the two most easily found emulsifiers:
- Methyl glucose sesquistearate – needs to be used at 3%, needs to be heated up to 70°C to work and is more hydrophilic so it needs a co-emulsifier which will be lipophilic (for instance cetyl-alcohol at 1% will do).
- Montanov 68 – this is a self-emulsifier. If you read its composition it already contains both the lipophilic and the hydrophilic emulsifiers: Cetaryl alcohol,Cetearyl Glucoside. It is usually added at 4% to a cream and needs to be heated up to 70°C.
Even if it might sound more difficult, having to mix your own two emulsifiers gives you better results in your cream (at least once you get the grip of it and realize what is the effect of each emulsifier in the final lotion).
If you want to follow a good advice, you should make different experiments with just water (gelled water) and a very cheap oil in a fixed amount and different emulsifiers, if you do this, you will be able to experience the different effect each emulsifier gives to your cream. This is a very important experiment if you want to be aware of which emulsifier does what… (and in the moment you decide to formulate a cream these notions will be very important!).

The “no heat” emulsifiers, instead, are usually liquid (normally very dense). They simply need to be added to phase B and, unless you are using rather difficult active ingredients (meaning that these active ingredients should be added alone in the end of the process), the phase A might contain also the phase C.
Once again you simply pour phase B into phase A and you mix with your immersion mixer until the lotion is formed.
Just one note: usually creams made with “no heat” emulsifiers are not very emollient and rich. This is due to the fact that, since the emulsifier cannot be heated up, you cannot use butters in your cream.
However SOME “no heat” emulsifiers (that, let me repeat again, just mean that the emulsifier will have emulsifying power even at normal temperature) DO bear heating. If you use such an emulsifier you can heat up the phase B in order to melt the butters (let’s say shea butter for example… which doesn’t need a high temperature to melt!) and then you can combine phase B to phase A and normally create your lotion.
If you want to do so, you should be able to get information about your “no heat” emulsifier, once again, right from your supplier. :)

This is all about the emulsifiers.
Let me know if you have any more specific questions about them.
:D

Have a great day! :D

(Sources)

How to make a lotion: EMULSIFIERS pt.1 – THEORY

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Emulsifiers are those substances which have the function to keep water and oils bound together in a lotion; this is possible because the emulsifier has a double affinity (it is both hydrophilic and lipophilic) and therefore the two, otherwise, immiscible liquids stay together.
This double affinity however is not the same for all the emulsifiers: so to say, some emulsifiers are more hydrophilic and others are more lipophilic. The value of this proportion is called HLB (“hydrophilic-lipophilic balance”).

[If you wish to skip the more technical part... just skip it :D bit more down I will make things very simple :D for the others of you, however, who wish to learn things little bit more in detail... well, keep reading :D ]

The HLB value goes from 0 to 20 and it is a numerical representative of the hydrophilic and lipophilic tendencies of the material.
I have found many schemes to sum up the different properties of an emulsifier according to its HLB but, to be very honest, they were so different from each other and mostly confusing therefore I have decided to sum them up in what seems to be the common basic idea:
if the HLB is between 0-3 then it is considered more a thickening agent than an emulsifier and it is strongly lipophilic.
If the HLB is between 3-6 this emulsifier is lipophilic and will be good if you want to make a W/O (don’t freak out and keep reading :D ).
If the HLB is between 8-16 this emulsifier is more hydrophilic and will be good for an O/W .

What do W/O and O/W mean?
The emulsions which result from combining oils and water can be of different kinds: for example an O/W (read “oil in water”) emulsion can form, where the oil is the dispersed phase while the water is the dispersion medium; or a W/O (read “water in oil”) emulsion can form, where the water, this time, is dispersed in the oil (there are also other possible emulsions like W/O/W or O/W/O but in case I will make another post in the future).
[The most common type of emulsion however is the oil in water]

So generally emulsifiers are more hydrophilic or lipophilic and in our cream (an O/W cream), to have a very stable emulsion, we should use two emulsifiers: one hydrophilic (the most important, therefore in higher percentage) and one lipophilic (or a lipophilic co-emulsifier).
Bear in mind, however, that some emulsifiers are sold as “self-emulsifiers” which means that they are already made of two kinds of emulsifiers and therefore you don’t need to add, for example, the lipophilic.

Here I post a list of common emulsifiers and their HLB value:

3.5-4.0 glyceryl stearate W/O
4.0 lecithin (the one you can find in the supermarket)
4.7 cetearyl alcohol W/O (good lipophilic emulsifier)
5.0 cetyl alcohol  W/O (good lipophilic emulsifier)
5.8 Glyceryl stearate
6.5 Polyglyceryl 3-oleate intermediate properties (not a good emulsifier)
9.7 lecithin emulsifier O/W (this is the kind of “modified” lecithin which you can buy on the websites which sell raw material)
10.0 Montanov 68 O/W (this is the commercial name of a self-emulsifier which already contains hydrophilic and lipophilic emulsifiers)
10.0 abil care 85 O/W
11.0 cetearyl glucoside O/W
11.5 Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate
12.0 methylglucose sesquistearate O/W (very good emulsifier, this is one of those which I use the most)
13.0 PEG 40 Hydrogenated castor oil emulsifier O/W and solubilizer
15.0 Polyglyceryl 10-laurate emulsifier O/W and solubilizer
16.7 Polysorbate 20 emulsifier O/W and solubilizer

This HLB value told us something about how the emulsifier is going to behave with our water and oils but there are many more important things which we still cannot know through it:
- how to use the emulsifier (does it need to be heated or does it have to be used at normal temperature?)
- at which percentage to use it (with a same HLB value different emulsifiers can be more or less strong)

[to be continued... :D ]

(Sources)