I did make the new face cream of which I was talking about in the last post but I will post that recipe a little later: I want to test it first and be able to give you the review also
[IF YOU ARE NEW to my blog, you might want to check the theory of how to make "as close as professional" creams at home you can do it HERE at the site index! And don't be scared thinking "I cannot do it", "it is too complicated" because everything looks complicated before you learn it so grit your teeth for a while and enjoy later On the same page there is also a link to my post where I show you where you can buy cosmetic ingredients online! ]
The recipe of today will be of a BODY CREAM, made with a new (to this blog) emulsifier!
Usually in body creams there is not too much need for active ingredients (or this, however, is my opinion) because it is already good enough if we have the consistency of applying the cream everyday however I choose to add in this cream precious fats like the Babassu oil and Shea Butter.
Are you ready for the recipe???
Water to 100 (all my recipes are written for 100 gr therefore this “water to 100″ means that you calculate the water at the end, in order to complete 100 gr of product. Why wouldn’t I simply write the amount directly? Because 99% of the time you won’t have the same ingredients as I do. Maybe you are missing one ingredient or you want to add one extra or you want to use an emulsifier which I don’t have or you have a preservative which has to be used at a different concentration than the one I am using… so once you have made your substitutions and have realized how much “everything else” you are adding… you can calculate how much water you need to use to reach 100% )
Glycerin – 5
Xanthan Gum (non transparent kind) – 0.2 – you can use transparent kind if you have that one.
Carbopol Utrez 21 – 0.4
Methil Glucose Distearate – 3.5 (this is the new emulsifier I am using in this cream. The feel is slightly lighter than the methyl glucose sesquistearate so I am thinking I will try this emulsifier for face creams as well. The percentage of use is slightly higher than MGS so 3.5 to 4% will do)
Cetyl Alcohol – 0.8
Cetyl Palmitate – 0.7
Shea Butter – 6
Babassu Oil – 8
Rose hip Oil – 3 (if you have other oils you can substitute these with what you have as long as you bear in mind the density of the oils I am using: to substitute properly you should use oils with similar density)
Dicaprylyl Ether – 3 (light synthetic oil which will help having a dry feel in the cream)
Hydrolized Oat Proteins – 3 (you can substitute this with any hydrolyzed proteins like for example silk, grains, milk…)
Allantoin – 0.4 (I like allantoin and I add it in close to any cream I make: it has soothing properties, it is not expensive and it has to be used at a very small percentage or it doesn’t disperse properly in the cream. It used to be difficult to disperse it before… until I found out that it “melts” in hydrolyzed proteins… this is why I always associate allantoin and hydrolyzed proteins together! However if you don’t have it do not despair: it is not necessary!)
Preservative (at the percentage which the specific preservative which you are using requires)
Fragrance Oil – few drops
Straight to the HOW TO!
2) You measure the Carbopol Utrez 21 and set it aside.
You measure the remaining water in a big becher (you just used 10 gr in the previous step, so you have to consider it )
You pour the Carbopol on top of the water and let it rest WITHOUT MIXING.
as you can see the powder seems to sit on top of the water.
It will hydrate slowly and if you try to mix with a spatula to make it faster… the Carbomer will actually stick to your spatula without hydrating. So let it be for a while and you will see that it will change and become like this:
If you look closely you can see that it is not yet a gel but it is still water with inside little whitish pieces: that’s how it is supposed to look like (just remember that Carbopol Utrez 21 becomes gel at pH 5 precisely).
5) After having checked the temperature (do not skip this!!! I know it is very tempting to think that “it looks hot enough” but the thing is that if your temperature is too low, the cream won’t emulsify well enough and after a few days the oils will start coming on the surface of the cream, so why to risk ) take them off from fire and pour the Phase B into the Phase A.
You should pour it little by little while stirring or (even better) already mixing with the immersion mixer.
In order to take the picture I had to stop stirring for a moment… but YOU DON’T DO THAT!!!
This is the most critical part so pay attention!
6) Now it’s time for the immersion mixer!
You will see that it will immediately become white but it will still be very liquid compared to the cream you were dreaming about:
But do not despair just keep mixing with the immersion mixer until everything looks well emulsified: the cream will start thickening up once it cools down and not before!
I will teach you a little trick on finding out wether your cream is well emulsified or not maybe I will make a post about it
7) Now that it looks well emulsified IT IS NOT FINISHED! In fact if you let it rest when it is still hot… it will probably separate again! In order to keep emulsified you will have to stir the cream until it is cooled down. This might take 30 minutes but you can always place the becher in cold water so it will cool down faster (I do that all the time ).
As you can see it already looks a little bit thick… but that’s nothing yet!
NOW… if the cream is really cooled down you COULD pour it in a jar.
I don’t suggest you to do so: the Cetyl alcohol and the Cetyl palmitate (the thickening agents) will keep thickening your cream for the next hours and actually for the next couple of days.
When making a cream containing these two ingredients I always prefere to leave the cream in the becher for a couple of days (obviously covered with plastic wrap and kept in a safe place) so that I can stir it every now and then: in fact if you pour it in the jar immediately after you make it, the cream will end up looking a little weird (I don’t know how to explain this any better… you will know it if you do it ).
Hope you enjoyed it!
Let me know if you try making it or if you have any question!
Have a great day!!!